What gun to get next?

[I.H.1989]

Do you guys think a STEN is too difficult to aquire? They are a very interesting piece but I'm not sure about them

[browningautorifle]

They're just fine. Check out http://www.subguns.com/classifieds/?...=&session_key= as he usually has some.

[I.H.1989]

I found this when i was looking for STENs online:

http://www.valkyriearms.com/sten.html

Not sure about this, but if anyone has heard things about them, or if you think a different gun would be better for my Hi-power, feel free to comment.

[I.H.1989]

I've done some more thinking, and I decided that it probably be better to go with maybe a Lee-Enfield.

I've never shot one before, so could some of you guys out there tell me how much recoil they have compared to a k98 or M1A1?

[browningautorifle]

They'll be about the same as a k98. Unless you get the #5, it's a bit more pronounced because of the butt pad shape.

[I.H.1989]

Which number Lee-enfield would you suggest as being the best, or does it depend on what a person is looking for?

[Seaspriter]

Which number Lee-enfield would you suggest as being the best

If you are looking for a target gun, the No.4. Mk2 is the best, and many in the $350-500 price range are virtually new.

A No.5 Jungle Carbine is a cool looking gun and easy to handle because it's almost 2 pounds lighter, but not as accurate because it's a carbine. A good one will sell in the same price range.

If you just want to get a gun to put on the wall, and shoot occasionally, look for a No.4 Mk1 that has been reconditioned at the end of WWII; it will typically bear the mark FR (Factory Repair) on the stock or FTR (Factory Thorough Repair) on the receiver. These were brought up to spec and then stored in a warehouse, and eventually sold as surplus. Typically they still have a lot of life left in them.

Stay away from the sporterized versions, which can be had for about $200 but no one wants them any more.

You can also pick up a WWI No.1 Mk3 for reasonable prices -- I just bought a nice 1917 Lithgow (Australian) that had been FTR'd in 1946 for $350.

[I.H.1989]

If you are looking for a target gun, the No.4. Mk2 is the best, and many in the $350-500 price range are virtually new.

A No.5 Jungle Carbine is a cool looking gun and easy to handle because it's almost 2 pounds lighter, but not as accurate because it's a carbine. A good one will sell in the same price range.

If you just want to get a gun to put on the wall, and shoot occasionally, look for a No.4 Mk1 that has been reconditioned at the end of WWII; it will typically bear the mark FR (Factory Repair) on the stock or FTR (Factory Thorough Repair) on the receiver. These were brought up to spec and then stored in a warehouse, and eventually sold as surplus. Typically they still have a lot of life left in them.

Stay away from the sporterized versions, which can be had for about $200 but no one wants them any more.

You can also pick up a WWI No.1 Mk3 for reasonable prices -- I just bought a nice 1917 Lithgow (Australian) that had been FTR'd in 1946 for $350.

Thanks for the info. Do you know how much are the Mk1s? I would like to have a WWII variant of one, but i will settle for the Mk2 if i have to.

[Seaspriter]

Do you know how much are the Mk1s?

I've purchased several FR or FTR Mk1s on GunBroker recently for $300-375. They are plentiful. I'm partial to the Savage/Stevens (US made) and Long Branch (Canadian) models, but I also have at least one example also from each of the three British makers (Fazakerly, Maltby, & British Small Arms), and one Australian (Lithgow). The quality is good from all these makers. The Ishapore Enfields from the India facility can sometimes be problematic.

Take your time to find a good one -- at these prices a fixer-upper shouldn't be your priority. And of course, if Bubba got to it, walk away; if it was sanded and varnished, turn away. If it says DP anywhere on it; it stands for "Drill Practice," meaning it is more than likely (but not always) filled with "Defective Parts."

I'm partial to the rifles that were bought for $15 in 1959 (like my father did for me when he bought my baseball glove and an Enfield at the neighborhood sports store). Often these sat in a closet and look a little dirty, but clean up perfectly. Of course, look for matching numbers on the receiver, bolt, and (if possible) on the magazine. Often, however, on the FR & FTR versions, an Armourer would have replaced a bolt and/or magazine if it didn't pass specs.

Parts are very easy to find, and prices on Enfields are rising steadily. IMHO they are the best value of any military gun -- very good quality, excellent price, and very importantly a great bunch of collectors, restorers, shooters, and armourers on this website that every day give superb advice. I've personally learned an encyclopedia's worth of knowledge, wisdom, and insight from the Milsurps experts. (Thanks guys!)

I'm sure other's will be chiming in with their opinions, observations, and expertise -- listen to them and, most importantly, have fun in the Enfield world.

[I.H.1989]

Thanks. I think i will get one after i come back from my next deployment overseas. i make it a habit to get a WWII rifles each time i come back.

What sort of things should i look for on a Lee-Enfield to ensure that i am not overpaying or being taken advantage of?

what sort of markings show that it is a WWII rifle, and how ca ni ensure that it will continue to be a good shooter for a few more decades?