What gun to get next?

[Seaspriter]

What sort of things should i look for on a Lee-Enfield to ensure that i am not overpaying or being taken advantage of?

what sort of markings show that it is a WWII rifle, and how can i ensure that it will continue to be a good shooter for a few more decades?

All the Lee Enfields are marked with a date -- that will tell you if they were war issue. All Canadian and American Enfields were made only during the war. A few of the British models were made after the war, but are clearly marked with post war dates.

To be sure its a good shooter, be sure the barrel is not worn out, bent, or bulged. Either have a gunsmith check the wear, or you can use a bullet in the muzzle to see if at least 3/16ths of an inch is exposed (Captain Laidler is wincing, maybe screaming, and definitely chastising me for even thinking this way -- he says a barrel gauge is the ONLY way -- but most of us don't own barrel gauges -- sorry Peter, I don't mean to get your dander up, not really).

The reason I like the FR & FTR guns is because an Armourer, at the end (or close to the end) of the war, determined all the parts in the gun had 80% life span left. Some of these FR & FTR guns were used in the Korean and Middle Eastern conflicts and got pretty banged up, but many just sat in a warehouse; you can usually tell by the wear on the stocks and metalwork. Be selective -- wait, watch, and buy only when you see good quality first -- even if you have pay a little more. The cheapest gun is seldom the best value.

---------- Post added at 12:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 AM ----------

my next deployment overseas

Good luck on your deployment. (Did that a few times myself in a former life).

[I.H.1989]

All the Lee Enfields are marked with a date -- that will tell you if they were war issue. All Canadian and American Enfields were made only during the war. A few of the British models were made after the war, but are clearly marked with post war dates.

To be sure its a good shooter, be sure the barrel is not worn out, bent, or bulged. Either have a gunsmith check the wear, or you can use a bullet in the muzzle to see if at least 3/16ths of an inch is exposed (Captain Laidler is wincing, maybe screaming, and definitely chastising me for even thinking this way -- he says a barrel gauge is the ONLY way -- but most of us don't own barrel gauges -- sorry Peter, I don't mean to get your dander up, not really).

The reason I like the FR & FTR guns is because an Armourer, at the end of the war, determined all the parts in the gun had 80% life span left. Some of these FR & FTR guns were used in the Korean and Middle Eastern conflicts and got pretty banged up, but many just sat in a warehouse; you can usually tell by the wear on the stocks and metalwork. Be selective.

---------- Post added at 12:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 AM ----------



Good luck on your deployment. (Did that a few times myself in a former life).

I've heard of using a pullet in gauging the the barrel so it's something that i've done befire (and it's probably put me on a hitlist as well lol).

Thanks for the information. a FR or FTR would probably be best for me since i want to ensure that i can enjoy these rifles for the next few years at least. When i get this, i need to move to maybe the SBRs from WWII. I doubt i will be able to get WWII, but maybe some replicas will be good enough.

I found this article about semi-auto MP-40s comeing to the states: WWII German MP40 in 9mm GunsAmerica Digest I will definitely get those when they come.

[Seaspriter]

I might also add, one really good option for your needs is a No.4 Mk1* from either Long Branch or Savage that has been FTR upgraded between 1950-56. (I have one). These will be re-marked on the receiver Mk1/3. The British versions are marked Mk1/2.

This means the triggers have been upgraded, new furniture, and often have a new barrel. You get a WWII gun with Post War improvements. Upgraded models will last you a long time and generally not much more expensive than those without the upgrades.

[Brian Dick]

Long Branch built the No.4Mk.1 and No.4Mk.1* from 1941 through 1950 and replacement receivers have been observed dated up to 1956.

[Seaspriter]

from 1941 through 1950

Brian, I know you are right about the 1950 date (forgot about that), but wasn't there a hiatus in production. I seem to recall the Long Branch production facility closed down in 1945 and was restarted about 1949 for Korean War production. You and our Canadian Forum Mates would know better than I. Were their doors still open for repair between WWII and Korea? (always happy to stand corrected by the experts)

[I.H.1989]

Here's a question for all of you:

What is the best brand of .303 ammo to use in a lee-enfield and what is the price for them?

[WarPig1976]

What is the best brand of .303 ammo to use in a lee-enfield

Ones you load yourself.....

[Seaspriter]

What is the best brand of .303 ammo to use in a lee-enfield and what is the price for them?

If Cheaper than Dirt still has surplus Greek HXP, it's high quality and non-corrosive @ about $.30 per cartridge, plus shipping. Keep the spent cartridges, and reload.

[I.H.1989]

Thanks for all of hte info that you guys have been giving me. It's been really helpful.

I do have a separate question. Is the a bandoleer that would be able to carry both the 303 and 8mm mauser? Like, could a M1 garand bandoleer carry .303 and 8mm mauser?

[browningautorifle]

Most Bandoleers that are cloth will carry about any type of 5 rd clips you have. The M1's cartridge belt is an example of that too...