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Legacy Member
Value on All Matching, Non-Import, BYF 45 K-98 with Original Sling
I recently acquired this K98
through private owner, whom stated that his grandfather had brought this back from WWII but there are no documents to substantiate the claim.
First off, I am no expert in the K98 and don't claim to be, in fact
my knowledge is limited in this area. Information I list here is what I found through long researching and from comments and info obtained from those more versed and knowledgeable of the K98 rifles. My consensus is that either this rifle is a very, very early import prior to 1968 when import marks were required or in
fact it is a vet bring back.
The rifle did have a light coat of shellac on it, that I assume the grandfather had applied after returning home to the states.
I was able to easily remove the shellac using denatured alcohol, allowing 24 hr dry time, then applied couple coats of Lemon Oil with dry time in between coats and the coat of Tom's 1/3 mix. The pictures shows the results.
During the complete break down of the rifle, I inspected all parts and log stamps and markings that I found.
Those results are as follows:
1945 byf by Mauser Oberndorf
Early – Late War 1945
Receiver Code: Mod 98
byf 45 receiver proofs waf 135 (2) (on sides) waf 135 (1) (on top)
Side Rail: Blank
Serial Number: 5 digits (s/n 41973)
Upper Band: no s/n no waf speed milled
Lower Band: no s/n no waf stamped
Trigger Guard: no s/n byf and waf 135 (2) stamped with 2 screws
Bolt: Kriegsmodel (phosphate) Matching Numbers: 1973
Safety on bottom appears to have waf
Front sight: Hood no waf
Rear Sight: meter scale no s/n waf 135 (bottom right side of sight)
Rear sight base: no s/n possible waf 135 (hard to make out)
Stock: Laminate
Stock Markings: (External Marks) Inside: (blurred waf and inverted V)
Side: (rgt side under disk) WaA135
Pistol Grip: unreadable/blurred waf
Spine: * C
Top Guard: *C
Bayonet Lug: no s/n no waf stamped (?)
Floor Plate: no s/n byf waf 135 stamped phosphate
Magazine Follower: no s/n no waf stamped
Cleaning Rod: no number, no waf, 12.5”
Sling: Leather Original, no markings that could be seen
This is nicest K98 that I had ever come across in long time that wasn't in someone's collection; even though its not in my realm of collecting, I couldn't pass it up.
I welcome all comments, insight, opinions on the rifle, It would only help further my
knowledge of this rifles.
Thanks for viewing ....
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06-30-2015 02:42 PM
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From the pics, it appears that all the wood has been sanded and possibly shellacked?
Regards,
Doug
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Thank You to Badger For This Useful Post:
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Legacy Member

Originally Posted by
Badger
From the pics, it appears that all the wood has been sanded and possibly shellacked?
Regards,
Doug
Doug, there was a light coat of shellac on it when I got it, but its been removed, I believe I mention this in my description
As for sanding, I do not know. The Shellac came off very easily and finished with couple coats of lemon oil and finally
2 coats of Toms 1/3 mix. It is shellac free.
Thanks for your input appreciate it ...
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I do think it's been sanded rather heavily before the shellac was applied, at least that's what the shallowness of the wood stamps seem to show...
Do have a really good close up of the top of the bolt and the serial number "1973" stamped on it?
Also, if I read the writeup on your wood markings correctly, there is no serial number stamped inside the hand guard or stock?
Here's a link to a small photo album I have of my BYF 1945 example...
1945 byf K98k Mauser - Badgers Photo Gallery
Regards,
Doug
Last edited by Badger; 06-30-2015 at 04:55 PM.
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The Following 2 Members Say Thank You to Badger For This Useful Post:
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Legacy Member

Originally Posted by
Badger
I do think it's been sanded rather heavily before the shellac was applied, at least that's what the shallowness of the wood stamps seem to show...
Do have a really good close up of the top of the bolt and the serial number "1973" stamped on it?
Also, if I read the writeup on your wood markings correctly, there is no serial number stamped inside the hand guard or stock?
Here's a link to a small photo album I have of my BYF 1945 example...
1945 byf K98k Mauser - Badgers Photo Gallery
Regards,
Doug
Hey Doug,
If you click on my pictures they will enlarge, and also can go here to view them: after shellac removed: http://imgur.com/a/uSoTK#10
and also here: http://imgur.com/a/WVScF#5
Your byf is certainly nice rifle and I appreciate you sharing the link
From I have learned thus far, the stock is correct for byf and seems rifle is an early-late war BYF 45.
The inside of the stock shows no signs of sanding and does not show any numbers that I can see
which I been told is correct also. Inside the stock is weak waf and a inverted " V " symbol.
Thanks for your input on this ....
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Contributing Member
It was sanded, but still a nice rifle. Do you have a picture of the stock with the buttplate removed (and a picture of the inside of the buttplate), and the cutout for the frog of the sling? It's best visible there if the stock has been sanded.
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Thank You to Promo For This Useful Post:
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Legacy Member

Originally Posted by
Promo
It was sanded, but still a nice rifle. Do you have a picture of the stock with the buttplate removed (and a picture of the inside of the buttplate), and the cutout for the frog of the sling? It's best visible there if the stock has been sanded.
Promo,
Ive gotten the 2 screws out the butt plate but can get the plate off, not wanting to bugger up the wood
so I stopped trying not sure how to remove it with out hurt to the wood. I notice during breakdown there is
a mark under the sling frog on the stock there that looks like perhaps a inverted *U
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Contributing Member
I was not referring to the markings, but to the edges which were cut - whether they are now rounded or still sharp.
Regarding the buttplate, the easiest way is to use a hammer and a bit of wood, to push against the top edge of the buttplate. Every buttplate is removeable without damage, so no worries if you're careful enough.
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Legacy Member

Originally Posted by
Promo
I was not referring to the markings, but to the edges which were cut - whether they are now rounded or still sharp.
Regarding the buttplate, the easiest way is to use a hammer and a bit of wood, to push against the top edge of the buttplate. Every buttplate is removeable without damage, so no worries if you're careful enough.
Those marks, at least to me feel sharp, but Im no expert on it, if its been sanded its been very very lightly done
Using your suggestion, I was able to remove the butt stock plate.
Stamped into the stock there is a Large "B" and over to right there is a 5 and then a 45 possuibly
I added a photo to show.
Thanks ...
Last edited by GySgt USMC; 07-02-2015 at 12:20 PM.
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