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Legacy Member
I had a look again last night a Graham's book and he does mention that there is or sometimes is a number "1" stamped on the actual blade of the genuine Sten bayonet. The thing is that although Grahams book is an excellent very informative book and well researched, on this matter, you really need to read the chapters on the No4 mk3 bayonet, the chapter on SMG spike bayonets and the chapter on fake spike bayonets. You then need to digest the information and then cross reference the info in your mind before drawing any conclusions. So far I haven't fathomed out if there was always a number "1" or sometimes a number "1" stamped on the actual blade of a genuine Sten bayonet. I'm not even sure that Graham makes it 100% clear. Can any-one tell us who has actually purchased one of the bayonets mentioned at the start of this post if there is a number "1" stamped on the actual blade, please.
If my understanding is correct the ex sten blades used on some No4 mk3 pig stickers were simply spare/surplus blades used up for economy reasons and had never actually been on a completed sten bayonet? In other words they were not hacked off a sten bayonet and re-welded onto a No4 mk3.
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09-26-2015 06:41 AM
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Contributing Member
The photos show a "1" stamped in the spike and it is also mentioned in the sales information as a distinction from fakes.
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Legacy Member
The example pictured on my site is from Apex and has the lowercase "L" on the blade.
http://worldbayonets.com/Bayonet_Ide...ar_2.html#sten
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marysdad, did you mean to say "1"? I had a look at your picture on your site and it looks like a "1" to me. I do own a No4 mk3 bayonet with a definite "L" stamped onto the blade. I would speculate that this stands for Lucas who assembled the mk3s and simply means that the blade was made in-house, in this case, as apposed to a subcontractor. I haven't seen this confirmed by any-one else, it's just me speculating.
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Contributing Member
From the photos on the APEX website, the blade shows a 1 on the blade/spike. The "L", "Z", and "E" are stamped on the barrel ring. I think this is what the photos on Marysdad's website shows also but would be easy to consider the 1 to be an L.
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I thought that the L or 1 was the point at which a hardening or tempering process was applied. Or am I wrong here?
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Legacy Member
Peter, I believe that the position of the "1" or "L" sometimes marks the position that the taper starts on the blade, in the case of the No4 mk3, but I am not sure if this is always the case on all examples. Things get complicated because some spare Sten bayonet blades were used up on the No4 mk3. You can tell if a No4 mk3 bayonet has a Sten blade because the taper starts much further down the blade towards the point with a significant part of the blade parallel. I have another No4 mk3 with no "1" or "L" marking but I think there is a dispersal code on it for a sub-contractor. I will have to check what it is as I haven't looked at it recently.
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Legacy Member

Originally Posted by
nzl1a1collector
Yes,
The serious bayonet collectors know about them and purchased them when they were only $275 ea.
The "E" marked ones are on sale for $275 now KNOB CREEK SALE! Bayonet, STEN MK II, Knives
"Z" $299 KNOB CREEK SALE! Bayonet, STEN MK II, Marking, No Scabbard
"L" $295 Bayonet, STEN MK II, Marking, No Scabbard
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Legacy Member
I have now, carefully examined both of my No4 mk3 bayonets and I have checked the start positions of the blade taper using a micrometer. Both bayonets are marked on the tops of the socket with M/158 the dispersal code for J. Lucas with a broad arrow mark adjacent to it. Example A has an upper-case "L" deeply struck onto the blade about 6" from the point but well away from the start of the taper which is over 1" further up the blade next to the socket. On this example there is no letter or number or any other mark where the taper starts. There are no other markings on this example. Example B has a number "1" stamped on the blade at the point that the taper starts which is next to the socket. This example also has "7L420" deeply but roughly stamped onto the socket and yes there is a certain amount of distortion/damage in this area. I guess this to be a rifle serial number? I don't believe either example to have a Sten Blade fitted because of the start positions of the taper. There can be no doubt about the mark to the blade of Example A being a letter "L" and it definitely doesn't mark the start position of the taper. I am open to suggestions as to what the "L" stands for but the best explanation that I can I can think of is that the blade on this example was manufactured in-house by Lucas. Neither example has a dispersal code stamped to the blade mentioned in my last post but I may have seen this on other examples not owned by myself.
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Contributing Member
I hate leaving you guys with a teaser but my bayonet arrived a few minutes ago. I will post photos hopefully sometime this weekend but for reasons listed in an earlier post, I can't really make a big production out of taking photos of a "plain old" bayonet.
I've never considered myself a bayonet expert. I've only been collecting a relatively few years compared to many here. I researched this as best I could on the net before putting that much dough on the table for one. From all I can tell, it's the real deal. It does not look like any of the others on the net which are either claimed as original post war production, reproduction, or original production I've seen. It is somewhat on the crude side but not nearly so much as any of the others. Efforts were made to shape the welds. There is no hole in the end of the spike. The spike tip looks correct. There is a deep "1" or "L" in the spike. It has clear but faint marks on the press release and the tube that are the same. There is a heavily impressed assembly or makers mark distinct from the other production marks. It has a small "L" stamped into the tube. The British
broad arrow is faint but present. The whole thing is covered with old grimy grease which does not wipe off, nor come off easily with a toothbrush. I did not remove all of it, just enough to locate the broad arrow. Finish is complete but worn on the edges, some dings, dents, etc all over the tube, the spike is probably of a harder material. The catch release is also unlike any of the reproductions. It is thicker and stiff to press. I will post detailed photos when I get a chance. Feeling a bit relieved right now.
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