Bipod on a No. 5 0r No 4

[villiers]

Thanks, sean.555 that´s exactly what I was thinking of. Otherwise, I´ll just have to do what jmoore suggests. The last alternative it to fit a pintle into the front of the fore-end cap (which wouldn´t do too much damage, as I could always use a replacement cap). But there´s not all that much wood at the front to hold it. I´ve sent Harris a mail just in case they´ve got any ideas.

[browningautorifle]

but don´t quite know where (or how) the `sling stud´ would fit on the fore-end.

It screws into the wood, like a wood screw.

[Bruce_in_Oz]

I'll second Sean6.555's solution.

Simple job to make up an "adapter" that has a narrow end like the original swivel and fits in its place, and a "fatter" end, like an "Uncle Mikes" QD swivel stud, to which the Harris bipod is designed to clamp. A bit of extra "padding on top of the swiveling top-plate may be needed, but that should be as complicated as it gets.

No "surgery" on the fore-end and pretty much a reversible operation.

For extra "flexibility", go for the Harris (or clone) unit that has axial swiveling built into the head. This saves a LOT of stuffing about trying to get it all level (un-canted), in the field.

The addition of one of the QD swivels to the factory fitting UNDER the bipod means you can have a sling AND a bipod. Hint: set the bipod so the legs fold FORWARDS, thus keeping them out of the way when the sling is in use for carrying.

[Son]

You could make a replacement dobble ended sling swivle to fit into the band one end then QD stud the other end to fit the bipod to.Think of a small bar with a hole through each end one the same as a standard sling swivle, the other replicating the QD stud. rifle end o=O bipod end.
Hope you get the jist of what I am trying to say. A small bolt a drill and a file an hour or two and you should be right.

I was having the exact same thoughts. I think the only problem would be with the ends of the band already being where the stud needs to be, you would have to put some packing between the pads on the bipod and the foreend to take up the extra length of having the stud end below the band screw fittings.

An alternative that may work... get another foreend band and weld/ attach the swivel stud end to the top (the other end of the band) When you want to use your bipod, take the original band off and fit the modified band upside down to present the standard swivel stud.

Big plus.... the work should not kill any dolphins!

[villiers]

YES! Think that this is definitely the only way to go. Am still hoping that Harris might have some ideas on a final solution along these lines. Thanks again for all your ideas!

Patrick

[browningautorifle]

Am still hoping that Harris might have some ideas

So...did you actually look at Harris Bipods to see how they mount?

[villiers]

sean, have just found this on a UK forum. Wonder why this hasn´t been done this commercially ...

[Peter Laidler]

Maybe we could take a leaf out of L1A1collectors L1A1 rifle adaptor photograph. Chop the spike off a No4 spike bayonet and weld a Bren bipod onto it. Then, when you need a bipod, just clip the 'bayonet-type bipod' on.

Ok.......... just joking!

[villiers]

The No. 5 bayo lug is on the (genuinely free floating) barrel .....

[Peter Laidler]

Even EASIER then Villiers.......! Just chop the blade off a cheapo No5 bayonet and weld/braze a Bren bipod onto that! Where there's a will, there's a way and all that.....

Regarding the No4 and 5's, then surely, just take the fore-end off and from the inside, in a couple of places on the lightening slots, drill through to the underside of the fore-end and tidily bolt on a PH or some other commercial rail that will take a slide-on/off bipod. 15 mts at most. Time to sell the rifle, just remove rail, glue and plug holes, make good and that's it. Another case of where there's a will .......... A very good contender is the light and adjustable bipod from the L86/SA80 LSW. In fact, I'd say that the bipod was one of the best things about the LSW