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Try winding the firing pin in further, often the end gets burred and binds when you attempt to remove it.
If you can wind it in so that it protrudes, a wipe with a file should make a difference.
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04-13-2016 06:32 AM
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Many thanks for your posts.
I am looking here for the correct removing tool since, as Mr. Laidler
said, my homemade tool has broken the prongs!
I would ask about the warming procedure....I have the way to use an oxyacetylene torch not only the cheap gas burner but my fear is to damage the thermal treatment of the cocking piece.....for istance the trigger release surfaces....your opinions?
I realized now that the threads of the strikers are differents between No4 and No1.....is it right?
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Peval,
Yes, the threads are different in the No 4 compared to the No 1 rifle.
Heat is OK but don't overdo it.
You won't take the heat treatment out if you keep it below 600 F.......say soldering temp.
Best way is heat it just enough that "spit sizzles" (!) when it hits it.
To test in this manner is quite easy as supplies are cheap. :-)
Good luck!
R.
Last edited by Richard Hare; 04-13-2016 at 09:41 AM.
Reason: spelling!
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Richard, I understand will try as soon as I find a proper tool.
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Originally Posted by
Bear43
I was expecting a cut off fore-end. Do you have handguards for her?
Here is a picture of the handguards
Attachment 71807
About the pattern of the rifle and according to my knowledge, I am asking myself:
looking the butt socket (see the markings picture) I can see the star lined out after the III.
Looking the rifle I see the correct fore-end, the cutoff device, the rear sight with windage, just the plate of the volley sight, no unit disc but not sure if taken away in arsenal (found vinilic glue around the wood disc)......is it a MkIII without some parts or a MkIII* somehow aborted??