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I went by the gunshop today to visit my Victory model. Re-installed the lanyard ring, and took off the non-serial numbered oversized replacement grips, and replaced them with a nice used set that matched almost perfectly for both size and wear. While I was at it, I checked the cylinder gap. It came in at .020", with virtually no fore and aft movement. I have heard .010 is optimum on civilan Model 10s, but wonder what the specs were for military Victory models.
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02-07-2017 03:33 PM
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Advisory Panel
Can't say what the endshake should be...but if it bothers you, you can get the little stainless shims from Brownell's. I think they're 1 thou thick each...?
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IIRC from my armorer days, .002-.005" end-shake is normal. It actually allows it to function with a slightly high primer. We'll see next Tuesday when I pick her up. I'll take it to the indoor range and do some rounds to check function.
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Advisory Panel

Originally Posted by
imarangemaster
It actually allows it to function with a slightly high primer.
Right, I tightened up a Mod 10 one time too much and it was hard from there. After that I left them alone. I haven't seen one used up yet.
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Well, My baby came to her new home. Vintage Western .38 Special 158 grain Lubaloy rounds in a reproduction shoulder holster from World War Supply.

Hopefully I'll get a chance to pop a few rounds in the woods tomorrow. I have about 1,000 rounds of .38 Special, about 700 rounds of it is vintage standard velocity 158s and 148 wadcutter. Another couple hundred is current production wadcutter and semi-wadcutter.
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irst impressions:
First I cleaned it up and scrubbed the bore and chambers of the cylinder. The bore is shiny, crisp and has sharp rifling. Fortunately what I thought might be "frost" was just a really dirty bore.
Second, timing and lock up (using the S&W used revolver diagnostic guide PDF) is perfect and centered on the bore. Free play fore and aft on the cylinder is negligible. No contact with the recoil shield, with case bases while rotating.
Third, double action is VERY smooth, just as you would expect from a vintage S&W revolver.
Fourth, single action is AWESOME at about 2.5 pounds, crisp, with no creep. This should shoot very well.
Fifth, while the cylinder gap is .020", I suspect that it will shoot fine. I doubt if wartime production revolvers would adhere to a .006" to .010" cylinder gap, especially for a combat arm, expected to possibly subjected to terrible conditions.
Sixth, The used grips I put on fit much better than the NOS replacement (non-serial numbered) grips that were on it. They were in much nicer condition than the revolver. The wear on the used (serial numbered) grips I put on was a good match.
Anyone know what the wartime cylinder gaps specs were? I have had several British
Webley and Enfield martial revolvers, and they had a much wider gap than civilian revolvers I have had.
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Advisory Panel

Originally Posted by
imarangemaster
Free play fore and aft
Of course you know that the end shake is checked after firing the action. Hold the trigger back and the hammer is still all the way down. You'll probably find practically no end shake...
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Of course you know that the end shake is checked after firing the action. Hold the trigger back and the hammer is still all the way down. You'll probably find practically no end shake...
Yep,I did know it but thanks!
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Figured so, by the way, nice looking rig and revolver. Very nice.
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Took it today and fired about 100 rounds. I had a ball. There was a bit more side blast from the .020" cylinder gap, but the shooters on either side didn't seem to notice, so it could not have been too bad.
The Victory has a smooth and quick double action, even though the pull seemed about right. Very east to be "surprised" by the break.
Single action was a joy, with the trigger probably being close to two pounds. Here's 6 shots, off hand, single action from 10 yards. 1.5" x 2". I am a lousy bullseye shooter, and this thing made me look good.
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