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  1. #1
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    painter777's Avatar
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    Before You Oil Your Stock....

    When you oil your stock set, that Hand guard color will stand out more than it is now.
    Not that it's bad but you could make it nicer...... now.. before adding a oil top coat.

    To mimic the freshly oiled look, just wipe your complete stock set with a lint free rag soaked with mineral spirits. While it's wet, You'll see much more of the yellow base color of that HG.

    I'd stain the hand guard darker so it will match the stock better before adding your oil finish.
    Your stock/HG are both Birch.

    Staining the HG only: I'd use Zar's oil based Cherry stain reduced: 1 part stain to 1 part mineral spirits to start. Wipe a nice even coat with the grain on the HG.
    Let it set for about 15 minutes, then wipe off evenly with the grain.
    If 'Darker' is needed add more stain to this mix slowly until the HG color better matches the stock.
    Shouldn't take much as your just trying to kill some of the yellow on that HG.
    Let any stained stock or HG dry a couple days before any oil top coat.

    I have a tank I use to park barreled receivers and or oil stock sets that will hold about 7 stocks made of stainless steel that I heat up. But for just a single stock I use one of those cheap storage totes.

    When I use RLO: I like to warm a pan over a stand alone electric burner. I add a quart of RLO with a quart of mineral spirits added to thin it. I use a medium heat setting for about 15 minutes so it warms it enough that it stays "loose". Pull if from the heater then add another quart of mineral spirits. Mix well then pour it off into a plastic tote.
    FOR FIRST APPLICATION AND FOR BEST PENETRATION ALWAYS cut your RLO with 2 parts mineral spirits to 1 part RLO. I dunk the stock set making sure it's bathed in the mixture. Let set for up to 2 hours, then pull, hang and let drain. You'll spend plenty of time wiping off runs and excess oil. The mineral spirits pretty much evaporates at this point so The excess oil (Now, not nearly as reduced) is saved and used for further hand applied wipings on the stock sets exterior over the next few days/weeks.

    About stains,
    Don't use stains that are considered stain and finish (varnish) all in one.

    Zar oil based stain is a good line and easy to work with. See this link and look at their Cherry (1/2 pint will do), I believe if used as I described above it will put your hand guard color much closer to your stock:

    ZAR® Wood Finishing Products

    BE SURE TO DUNK YOUR USED RAGS IN WATER AFTER USE.

    FWIW,
    Charlie-Painter777
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    Legacy Member Dalebert's Avatar
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    Painter777,

    Thanks for your detailed reply and advice.

    Part of what I was after in my question was whether this is an "unfinished" stock and would have further processing before issue or attachment to a gun.. I didn't assume that because the metal clip on the handguard came attached and there is a small fleck of tarish substance (visible in picture) on the stock. So I was reluctant to dive in on changing what might be an as issued stock set. That said, my carbine is a reworked Blue Sky import, so not exactly a valuable collectors piece. The gun dates from 44 and is very accurate.

    This gun is important to me because my kids grandpa (Marine) fought in several Pacific campaigns during WW2 and no doubt used an M1icon at some point. It's also their favorite of my milsurps.

    Thought members might enjoy picture of my youngest daughter shooting the carbine. She's about 25 in this picture, but could pass for about 13. She's five foot-nothing, so this is the milsurp for her. People I show the picture love the contrast of the military rifle and the pink polka dot boots. Both of my girls are girly girls, but like to shoot. I am blessed. Other picture is her six foot sister shooting the DOT 1944. My other "M1" can be seen in background.

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    Legacy Member Dalebert's Avatar
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    Oops. Forgot a picture

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