Lanchester SMG HELP Please

[David H]

Thank you so much for all the help, I've just confirmed I'll take it..... so hoorah I now have 2 Lanchesters...

David

PS just looked really closely at the one I have it is actually 42 not 41

[browningautorifle]

Perhaps later there could be an expose on the two comparing. Between what you have and a couple of these men that have worked on them, we should be able to compare similarities...

[green]

So that's what that cut is for!

[Peter Laidler]

I worked on plenty of RN, Aust Navy and NZ Navy ones. As many small variations as you could wish to see. But mainly the bog standard Mk1* without a safety lever.

[browningautorifle]

I worked on plenty

That was what I was counting on Peter, if he gives us multi view of both you and a couple others should be able to give quite an education about it...

[browningautorifle]

Here's a comparison of what dewats are available here and prices. This guy's prices are to the moon but he sells, no where else to go. He uses live guns and dewats as needed...

Lanchester Mark 1 Submachine Gun - Deactivated - Collector's Source, Military Collectibles Online Scroll back and forth and you can look at the STGs, Thompsons, Brens...

[Flying10uk]

Here is my U.K. deactivated Lanchester MK1* with a slightly different stock.

[Vincent]

The stock on the Lanchester Mk1 you already have looks like one of the early ones. The hole for the trigger guard was made longer so the ill-fated selector could pass through. There’s more on the selector in Peter’s excellent book.

The cocking handle is early too. It’s a copy the Schmeisser MP-28 handle.

Many MP-28 parts are interchangeable with the Lanchester. I have an MP-28 firing pin in my Lanchester breech block at the moment. The gun runs a little faster than with the Lanchester firing pin.

A reproduction safety latch is available here if you can’t find an original.

[Brit plumber]

Top V early Mk1 Sterling with Change lever removed to make it Mk1*

Middle Is later Sterling Mk1/Mk1*

Bottom is BOSS Mk1*
Attachment 83466
VV Early Sterling Mk1 with Steel Mag Housing
Attachment 83467

V Early Sterling Mk1 change lever
Attachment 83468

[Peter Laidler]

SINGER............ I was sure that only Sterling, Greener and Boss made the guns. But like all things, I stand to be corrected of course. At this time of the war Singer UK were in dispute with the UK Government regarding their neutrality and were baulking at the idea of even making war related parts.

One thing we should all take on board from day 1 is that the different methods of manufacture, shapes or parts, additions of this that and the other, screwed or welded, barrel fixing method etc etc make absolutely no difference to the mark/type. Think No4 rifle. trigger guards, cocking pieces foresight protectors, handguards etc etc. According to the Navy EMER - what they call the BR, a gun with a select fire mech is a Mk1 and a gun WITHOUT the select fire facility is a Mk1*. The BR read something along the lines '...in the interest of standardisation in the future, Mk1 guns should be converted to Mk1* at the NoD using either of the approved methods as soon as the opportunity arises'. And it listed the NoD's capable of carrying out the work. Whether it is a hybrid mix after being converted in order to utilise existing parts makes no difference

What would be nice and informative would be if someone with a bent for computer drawing could draw up a three or four picture schematic drawing(s) of the single shot trigger mech operation. In much the same way as the L2/Mk3 and 4 Sterling mech is illustrated pictorially. But let me see it first as it is simple to get it wrong. And with the Lanchester single shot trigger mech, it can be NEARLY right, but hopelessly wrong!

Aside a bit..... but all of the ones that came through our Base Workshop from the NOD at Sembawang were marked on the butt 40BW - S - 8/68 (or whatever date) and went out with No4 butt plates and sling swivels. If you want to make your Lanchester a tad more reliable then change the floating firing pin to a fixed firing pin. By drilling down through the side of the breech block down to the centre, tapping it, insert grub screw and lock firing pin forward, Now it doesn't rely on a floating f/p that is at the mercy of the recoil spring.