What should be my next WWII era firearm?

[Aragorn243]

The pessimist in me says the dark spots are dings that didn't get sanded and thus retain the original coloration. But judging finish from a photo is really, REALLY hard. I have seen many that color, it is lighter than most but not out of the ordinary. Looking at them close up it almost looks like something was splashed onto it. They do not look like dings.

[I.H.1989]

The pessimist in me says the dark spots are dings that didn't get sanded and thus retain the original coloration. But judging finish from a photo is really, REALLY hard. I have seen many that color, it is lighter than most but not out of the ordinary. Looking at them close up it almost looks like something was splashed onto it. They do not look like dings.

Those spots almost look like mold, but I don't think they are. I am curious if the lighting is causing it to look lighter than it really is.

I may get this one. It comes with a bayonet as well and the price seems decent

[Aragorn243]

I'm also a guy that bought what I could afford and as time went on bought something better. I bought a Type 99 pretty early on without a mum and never regretted it. I could not afford one with a mum at the time, and that's when they were cheap. The 99 without mum cost me $90 at auction. It's now probably worth $300 so again, no regrets. I bought it probably 7 years ago. Since then I bought a last ditch with no mum and restored a massive bubba job with no mum. Probably put more into that than it's worth. I sort of kinda regret that one but I also have taken some pride in the accomplishment. I did not have one with a mum until just about 3 months ago. Finally found one I felt I could afford at $400. My finances are quite a bit better than they were 7 years ago and in this instance, I found one for about the same price they were bringing in my area 7 years ago. It's hard to lose money on a rifle, unless you really overpay on it at the beginning. I have on occasion overpaid by a little, knowing how hard it was to actually find one and knowing the price would increase with time.

My biggest problem is once I have something, I don't like getting rid of it, even if I am upgrading. I am adapting and learned that trading solves part of that problem. I have sold a few also. It's tough but I made a rule that what I get out of sales, goes into another rifle, not a new sofa or TV. I think the first rifle I posted here was a 1917 Eddystone that I got for $300 which at the time was about the max I could go on any rifle. Asked for advice, got lots of it and made the purchase. That one is now gone, I got a much better example about two years ago and I traded it away for something else, an Enfield I think. Condition was poor, bore was poor, stock was heavily sanded, I cleaned it up myself and it looked great but was not a collector piece and probably not the best shooter either. But it had rifling and those sold by the CMP for $400-$500 didn't even have that.

So my advice is: Be careful, but not too careful, take the occasional risk, buy what you enjoy, buy what you can afford and don't be afraid to upgrade when the opportunity arises. I don't know your personal situation, kids and wives are severe setbacks to rifle collecting, kids mostly, my wife is pretty good about it all things considered. Pesky kids require braces, musical instruments, computers, clothes and food among other things. I had an 18 year break between my first three milsurps and my fourth. Still have those three though.

[I.H.1989]

I'm also a guy that bought what I could afford and as time went on bought something better. I bought a Type 99 pretty early on without a mum and never regretted it. I could not afford one with a mum at the time, and that's when they were cheap. The 99 without mum cost me $90 at auction. It's now probably worth $300 so again, no regrets. I bought it probably 7 years ago. Since then I bought a last ditch with no mum and restored a massive bubba job with no mum. Probably put more into that than it's worth. I sort of kinda regret that one but I also have taken some pride in the accomplishment. I did not have one with a mum until just about 3 months ago. Finally found one I felt I could afford at $400. My finances are quite a bit better than they were 7 years ago and in this instance, I found one for about the same price they were bringing in my area 7 years ago. It's hard to lose money on a rifle, unless you really overpay on it at the beginning. I have on occasion overpaid by a little, knowing how hard it was to actually find one and knowing the price would increase with time.

My biggest problem is once I have something, I don't like getting rid of it, even if I am upgrading. I am adapting and learned that trading solves part of that problem. I have sold a few also. It's tough but I made a rule that what I get out of sales, goes into another rifle, not a new sofa or TV. I think the first rifle I posted here was a 1917 Eddystone that I got for $300 which at the time was about the max I could go on any rifle. Asked for advice, got lots of it and made the purchase. That one is now gone, I got a much better example about two years ago and I traded it away for something else, an Enfield I think. Condition was poor, bore was poor, stock was heavily sanded, I cleaned it up myself and it looked great but was not a collector piece and probably not the best shooter either. But it had rifling and those sold by the CMP for $400-$500 didn't even have that.

So my advice is: Be careful, but not too careful, take the occasional risk, buy what you enjoy, buy what you can afford and don't be afraid to upgrade when the opportunity arises. I don't know your personal situation, kids and wives are severe setbacks to rifle collecting, kids mostly, my wife is pretty good about it all things considered. Pesky kids require braces, musical instruments, computers, clothes and food among other things. I had an 18 year break between my first three milsurps and my fourth. Still have those three though.

Thanks for the advice. I'm usually the type to look for a good deal. If time and money permits, i probably will go for more arisakas and other firearms that were used by the various powers, but until then, I will be sticking with one representative for each.

I also understand not wanting to get rid of anything, and I have 3 for sure that I won't part with: my Quality Hardware M1 Carbine (my first), my WWII/East Germany K98 (nice piece of history), and my WWII Walther P38 (first WWII handgun and pitted on one side heavily and still shoots great; wish I knew where it had been). The others, I may be willing to if the price is right, but I will do my best to keep those three working for as long as possible.

[I.H.1989]

Ok, I got an offer for a Series 32 Toyo Kogoyo Arisaka from the later half of 1943 and they are asking for $300 for it. The serial numbers match, the chrome bore is clean and bright, it has the anti-air sights, and still shoots well from what he tells me.

I'm just looking for your opinions on this since you all have helped me with my stumbling through purchasing my next WWII firearm

[Aragorn243]

That one I can say with some confidence has the original finish on the stock. The metal on the receiver may have been cold blued. Barrel finish looks good.

[I.H.1989]

That one I can say with some confidence has the original finish on the stock. The metal on the receiver may have been cold blued. Barrel finish looks good.

From what the man has told me, there has been no restoration work done on it as far as he knows. Here's a couple more pics that show the manufacturers and series. It might give a better view of hte metal as well.

[Aragorn243]

Looks like cold blue on a very finish worn receiver complete with pitting. Unlike refinishing a stock, cold bluing is reversible, comes right off with steel wool and any actual finish or patina usually stays. Note the color is exactly the same over the ground mum, which should be "white". Lots of freckling which is probably a bit of browning (age patena). Probably nice and blue under the wood, which is natural with these. Price is not terrible but I think I'd offer him $250 and see where that goes.

[I.H.1989]

Thank for the info. I just sent him an email with the info you presented, and asking for the price you gave me. The filed mum was something I was curious about, but I never thought to really question it.

How could yo utell that there was pitting, and how would i exactly remove cold bluing if i decided to get this one?

[I.H.1989]

I just got a message, and he said that $300 is all that he would take.