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Thread: WW2 US surplus 30.06 ammo is it safe to shoot in a high number Rock Island 1903?

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  1. #1
    Legacy Member bcd8238's Avatar
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    WW2 US surplus 30.06 ammo is it safe to shoot in a high number Rock Island 1903?

    Hi all, I have a few hundred rounds of this ammo, various headstamps such as SL, LC, DEN, DM etc. Just enquiring whether it is ok to use in a high number Rock Island 1903? It looks to all original ammo with the crimped cannalure. Is there any significance in relation to a red annulus on some of these rounds? I thought these may have been tracer or something like that. I guess the range officers may not be happy if these are tracers etc.

    Also, I have some Gevelot Model 49 brass cased ammo with the black sealant on the case mouth. I have used some of this in a Columbian Mauser in .30-06 some time ago and remembered it kicked like a mule. I'm thinking that this may be a bit too much for the RI. What are your opinions please Gentlemen?
    Many thanks for your help
    Kind regards BCD
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    Legacy Member AFJon's Avatar
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    Should not be an issue if its original ammo and not a reload. Assume it's corrosive primed and clean as appropriate.

    You could pull down some of the rounds in question and see if it's a tracer by looking at the base of the bullet for tracing material. That said there's no guarantee the rounds would trace due to age, but better safe than sorry.
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    Contributing Member BEAR's Avatar
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    If the ammunition is clean and undented it should be safe to fire. Clean means no corrosion or verdigris but dull brass is ok. The WW2 30.06 is made for the M1icon rifle so it would be safe for any high number M1903. US rifle .30 ammunition mfg. before 1952 will have corrosive primers so clean diligently after firing. Even a 24 hour delay after firing will begin to rust in the barrel.
    The red on the annular ring is a laquer water proofing. Tracers have a red tipped bullet.

    BEAR

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    Legacy Member bcd8238's Avatar
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    Thanks mates for the great answers. Puts my mind at ease. I do have some factory ammo as well, but thought, seeing as I'm going to a service rifle shoot this weekend, it would be in the spirit of competition to use some original ammo. Not sure about ammo collectors in this region being interested - actually never asked.. There are a few chaps that do collect ammo who will be at the shoot, so I will check with them prior letting rip.

    Also, thanks very much re the corrosive primer advice, will get the boiling water going first then the Hoppes 9, then Sweets 7.62 solvent for the copper. If you use this cleaner, best patch out with methylated spirits before final pass with the oily patch.

    BCD

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    Contributing Member usabaker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcd8238 View Post
    Hoppes 9, then Sweets 7.62 solvent
    Here is a quote from American Gunsmith January 2015:

    "Avoid mixing different brands of solvents. For example, avoid using Hoppe’s No. 9 on a bore brush to remove carbon fouling (a good thing) and then following it with Shooter’s Choice Copper Solvent or Sweet’s 7.62 on a patch for copper fouling. ... Before email, Boots Obermeyer sent his customers a letter typed on a real typewriter and mailed with a real stamp. He documented ruined gun barrels that had been damaged by the sort of example I just used above. It seems that mixing solvents can result in unintended compounds that can be harmful to the barrel. You can, however, use Hoppe’s No. 9 on a brush to get the carbon fouling and follow it immediately with Hoppe’s Bench Rest to get the copper or use regular Shooter’s Choice on a brush followed by their copper remover. Stay with the same brand of solvent. "

    Take it for what its worth.

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    Legacy Member Sunray's Avatar
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    "...if these are tracers..." All non-Ball ammo is coloured on the bullet point. Trace is red. AP is black. Incendiaries are green as I recall.
    Anyway, .30 M2 ammo is less "powerful" than the M1906 an '03 was designed to use. Only issue is that some W.W. II vintage M2 is collector stuff. Moreso if it's in a vintage box.
    "...will get the boiling water going..." Hot tap water will do. Boiling water just causes the metal to dry faster.
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    Contributing Member rcathey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunray View Post
    Only issue is that some W.W. II vintage M2 is collector stuff. Moreso if it's in a vintage box.
    Seconded. I can trade you some new production stuff before you shot up any WWII ammo. Especially if it’s the specialty stuff. I like all those pretty colored tips haha

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    Contributing Member usabaker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve762 View Post
    ong time member of the U.S. Army's Service Rifle Team
    Joe Carlos the armorer for US Army Reserve Marksmanship Program?

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    Contributing Member usabaker's Avatar
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    I've got a little over 200 rounds of pretty old 30-06 Military Salvage ammo Nickle and copper spitzer heads - WRACO, WRA, RA, LC, WCC, FNM, the ones that has dates are mostly 40's and some 50's, FC's are mostly 1920's most don't have dates and the oddest headstamps is "WRACO .30G.1906" two of these in pretty bad condition.

    I was just getting ready to take them apart for the components (mostly the bullets) most of the cases are not worth keeping to reload. I noticed that there are people here collection old rounds if there is a particular round/headstamp someone is looking for in 30-06 or 8MM Mauser let me know and all sort through and see if I have them.

    Maybe I'll catalog what I have and post it.

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    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by usabaker View Post
    pretty old 30-06 Military Salvage ammo
    That's quite a mass of old stuff...
    Regards, Jim

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