What to look for in purchasing a 1903

[Mike Haas]

The gun show had a number of 1903's to choose from, all in varying grades, conditions, and models. I ended up getting a Smith-Corona 1903a3, with a barrel date of 11-42. It has the following markings:

Left side of the stock: FJA (in a square); crossed barrels; RIA EB (in a square)

Bottom of stock: P (in a circle right behind the trigger guard); four numbers in a square, triangle, circle, and diamond right in front of the trigger guard.

The bore looks great, and the wood and finish are in nice shape.

I saw a lot of samples and this one just seemed like the "right" one.

Thanks again for all of the information.


- Chris

Patton - Are you sure that barrel date is 11-42 ? - Is the barrel stamped SC ?

[Kirk]

As has been stated above, bore condition is first consideration. Invest in a gauge that can measure throat erosion (TE) and muzzle wear (MW) The scale for both is 0 to 8 which corresponds to .300" to .308" They basically measure how high the lands are. Ideally, a new barrel would measure 0 on both MW & TE. During WWII, standards were relaxed & brand new barrels sometimes measured 3 right off the production line. I'd hesitate to by a rifle that measured over 3 MW (muzzle wear is the more critical factor) or 5 TE.

Next would be headspace. I once purchased a rifle that had excess headspace & it caused me grief & problems. If you don't wish to invest in Go and No Go gauges (you need both and they are more expensive than a bore gauge), insist on an inspection period & have a competent gunsmith check headspace.

After that, I'd look for the mechanical condition of the rear & front sights (opperate freely & no bent/broken parts; safety on the bolt shroud (does it turn freely); firing pin & striker (striker has smooth, hemispherical head with no pits or erosion and the sear face on the firing pin nice & even with no pits); bolt face (striker hole round & no erosion or pits; bolt lugs (wear pattern show both engage; no pits); safety lug clearance at least .03" from receiver bridge; sear engagement nice & even (can be seen at receiver tang when bolt is removed); trigger pull has definite two-stage pull with a definite stop at the end of the 2nd stage & a definite, consistent let off; extractor extracts & ejector ejects; guard screws tighten up OK (slots not buggered & screws not broken); magazine cut off has plunger & spring & operates smoothly; follower & spring function OK (follower spring in many rifles needs replacement - if it has lost its spring, it causes poor feeding as the cartridges are not pushed up enough where the bolt can push them into the chamber.

Last is finish - pitting & rust downgrade a rifle. The stock should be free of cracks, splits, chips. Repairs are OK if they are done well - US Army repaired many stocks & did a good job. Foreign governments like the Greeks made rough repairs & it shows.

That's it in a nut shell! A piece of cake!

[Lancebear]

Hey Chris,

Can we see some photos? Sounds like you did well.

LB

[duggaboy]

hooray for you; we all know that the Smith-Corona is the top of the line. Sounds like you have a copy of my rifle, Duggaboy

[patton63]

Hey Chris,

Can we see some photos? Sounds like you did well.

LB

Thanks. I will post some pics tonight or tomorrow.