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I would disagree very slightly and say that a steel - or an anything else putty mix - is doomed to failure, based on simple physics and inertial maths. Physics and chemistry tells us that the putty is and will always remain just that...., a putty. And Newton tells us about inertia. Alloy segments were a known failure point hence the brass versions were the only ones provided as spares. These were hot pressed over a mandril. So simple to make with a fly press or take from an old No42
Incidentally, to test the fixability of the telescope and especially the erector and segment we had a drop test known as the fastness test. It involved setting the telescope in the layer and firing a couple of rounds with the recoil buffer set to hard. That would sort out all the forthcoming problems. I would liked to have tested a resin segment there. Mind you, as I always say. If you're shooting your rifle on a nice sunny range in 2018, it's one thing. If you're on the advance into Antwerp holding a harrying position overlooking a cross-roads you might want something a tad more reliable
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Thank You to Peter Laidler For This Useful Post:
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08-07-2018 08:07 AM
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Peter, Not disagreeing about "putty" as such, however Devon Putty A is a two part Epoxy which sets up hard. I mention this as I'm just not sure if you're familiar with it.
I use it as a bedding material in all of my customs and I've never seen it fail under recoil yet, even with 357 H&H Magnum.
However, I will be going down the route of a metal replacement for originality.
R
Last edited by Musgrave; 08-07-2018 at 10:33 AM.
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Oh, yes, I've heard of it. As good as gold for bedding and all that. But alas in shear it is......., what's the word I'm trying to find......? Ah, yes....., found wanting.
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Oh, yes, I've heard of it. As good as gold for bedding and all that. But alas in shear it is......., what's the word I'm trying to find......? Ah, yes....., found wanting.
With a capital “s” ?
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That made me chuckle!!!!! Yes, you've got it in one! Don't forget that it is a toothed segment and it's only the teeth that are stopping the inertia/weight of the erector that wants to stay still while the rifle accelerates rearwards. And alloy or steel resins aren't ally or steel...., they're just resins impregnated with ally or steel - or brass etc etc
Added later..... Just as an afterthought, I did strip an old and well used tatty Mk1 several years ago and the segment had obviously crusted away many years before. The owner had inserted in its place a section of steel thread, cut from a nut that matched the 28TPI (or is it 30 or 32TPI?) of the erector pitch. Don't forget that it is not a thread as such but the scope owner didn't realise that so adjusted this bit of internally 'threaded' nut segment so that it sat sort-of neatly in the hole and positively locked the erector. Not perfect - but very nearly I'd say. And it'd certainly been there a long time.
Food for thought and the next best thing to a proper job I'd say
Last edited by Peter Laidler; 08-08-2018 at 06:21 AM.
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May I ask how do you redo the white numbers on the scope turrets ? What type of paint is used ? Thanks for any help that can be given .
Last edited by tr63; 11-18-2018 at 06:35 PM.
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I think the original product was (is?) called 'Kwikfill' (not exactly sure of the spelling). However, white wax crayon, whilst not as hard as the original, makes a reasonable substitute. If it comes out, it's simple enough to just go over it again.
I wish I'd been in on this thread when the OP started it - I was away on holiday - as I have not lots, but certainly a fair few spare locking segments. He could have gladly had a couple. Over the years I've stripped quite a few No42's & 53's & only sometimes have I needed the segment. When not needed they just go into a little tray.......
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Thank You to Roger Payne For This Useful Post:
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Interesting post.
I never had a problem getting the little lid off. #20 slide hammer and a machine screw worked every time.
MJ, don't take this personally, but that's crap.
muffett.2008

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The locking segments were always a total PITA in service life and the replacements came in brass. I wish I'd known DRP had some spare!!!!! It'd have saved us the absolute hassle of inverse turning!
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I think the original product was (is?) called 'Kwikfill' (not exactly sure of the spelling). However, white wax crayon, whilst not as hard as the original, makes a reasonable substitute. If it comes out, it's simple enough to just go over it again.
I wish I'd been in on this thread when the OP started it - I was away on holiday - as I have not lots, but certainly a fair few spare locking segments. He could have gladly had a couple. Over the years I've stripped quite a few No42's & 53's & only sometimes have I needed the segment. When not needed they just go into a little tray.......
Is it worth it to pickup a No. 53 or a No..42 to use it for parts to repair a No.1 or the No.II scopes .What parts will interchange ?
Last edited by tr63; 11-24-2018 at 08:02 AM.
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