Help me identify my enfield

[smle addict]

Its a non-issue. The pierced primers are a sign of pressure in the other direction from the backed-out primers. I have seen asymmetrical in many of my rifles. I just full-length size and reload-on. Granted, case life for me (generally) is around 3-5 loads with Remington and Winchester brass. With HXP and PPU, I have some cases going on 7 loadings. HXP and PPU is much better brass than the current US commercial stuff. I have a couple of hundred loads consisting of Hornady brass, and am now up to 6 re-loadings with those. Pricey, but good stuff too.

As always, use the most current load data, and never exceed the maximums listed in the manuals. Almost all of my loads are in the 80-85% of maximum. I keep the velocities to around 2200 to 2300 FPS. Remember, these are old rifles, and there is no need to max the loads.

Heck, I have a 220 Swift that bulges cases in an asymmetric way, and that thing still shoots 1/2 inch groups all day long. Cases life is short for that one, as I max all of those loads for varmint hunting.

[mrclark303]

My SMLE (1917 Enfield) always leaves a slight bulge in the back end of the case, head space is fine.

The SMLE had a rather generous chamber, apparently configured to facilitate the Rifles reliable use in 3 feet of mud during WW1.

I can only assume that Ishapore kept the same chamber spec?

My No4 and No5 far less so, with a very slight, barely noticeable deformation.

I would concur regards recoil, .303 is certainly a lot more sedate than .30-06.

I notice the same thing when I switch between my Enfields and my A4 at the range.

[Roger Payne]

Yes, I find the same significant difference in perceived recoil between 303 & 7.9 x 57. I can shoot 303 all day but I've generally had enough after 30 rounds of 7.9, especially if it is Summer & I'm wearing only light clothing........

[army1882]

As mentioned before, your fired brass looks typical. If you're going to reload, buy yourself a Lee Collet neck sizing die. It will significantly extend case life. Also, your loaded rounds will now be headspaced on the shoulder rather than the rim. Commercial, American made, 303 cases typically have thinner rims than the original milsurp ammo, causing sometimes headspace problems. This is eliminated when neck sizing rather than full length sizing. Good luck with your No1 and enjoy!!

[RobD]

I am not an expert, but have shot .303s all my life and regularly shoot 6 examples [ME, LEC, MLE x2, SMLE, No4]. In the past I have certainly had one .303, a MLE, which stretched cases a lot, and led to case separations after a small no. of reloadings; I tried everything but was never happy and then sold it on and became happy. And I've been very lucky ever since then with several other rifles; they vary a lot - and it was not down to headspace but the dimensions of the chamber, I understand. The chamber on your rifle does seem wider than most, from the appearance of your case. Although there is often a bright ring on a fired .303 case about 8mm up from the rim [which is, by the way, the same place where most case separations occur] , the bulge shown in your pic does seem unusually obvious. Even if you just resized the necks, I wonder if you'll start to see case separations. Those aren't catastrophic, by the way, but it is not a reassuring thing to happen on the range and it does require having a .303 broken case extractor with you [ see .303 Clearing Plug, Or Split Case Extractor. ]. My personal preference in your situation would be as follows: I'd sell the rifle back to the dealer I got it from, accepting 25% or so loss, and I'd look for another .303 from a reputable dealer but I'd ask if I can do a range test first, to satisfy myself the rifle is accurate and the cases look OK after firing. I think peace of mind has a lot of value. But as I say that is my personal view; I am quite certain others will disagree, perhaps emphatically.
Rob

[Alan de Enfield]

I wonder if you'll start to see case separations. Those aren't catastrophic, by the way, but it is not a reassuring thing to happen on the range and it does require having a .303 broken case extractor with you

That is what the Butt-Hole and oil bottle is for - to make sure you always have a spare :
Extractor
Extractor Spring
Extractor screw
Case extractor


Add a small watchmakers screwdriver and you are 'good to go'.

[RobD]

"That is what the Butt-Hole and oil bottle is for"

Is that a quote from Carry on up the Khyber?

[us019255]

0% plan on reloading but was gonna do this for a while to accumulate brass

I am not an Enfield expert, but I do reload for 3 of them. 1) The bulge is rather typical of the loose chambers that were to decrease the incidence of jams from mud in trenches. The solution for reloaders is to save brass from each rifle separately then neck size. You now have rounds that are customized for each chamber. Brass life will be excellent. 2) It is best practice to get some common "O" rings that just slip onto the cartridge and rest on the rim. The first time you use the brass it will be held in close contact with the bolt. Yes, bolt will be hard to close the bolt. Remove the"O" ring, neck size and you will now, in that rife, head space on the shoulder. Again long brass life. If I remember the archives somewhere on this site have this info.

[pisco]

hi i would keep it batch some brass to the rifle and enjoy