-
Legacy Member
2 coats of enamel done and rubbed back with wire wool. I have then forced patina on all the exposed brass to subdue it down so it blends seamlessly.
I would like it to be a little better but seeking perfection in this part is not essential and the finish I have seen on most reference pictures isn't great.
Pretty pleased up till now, the mock up looks decent. Hope to make the 4BA locating pin tomorrow and then I need to speak to my friend about getting back on his mill to finish off by drilling and tapping the 8 x 8BA holes.
Getting close.
Attachment 103215Attachment 103216Attachment 103217
Last edited by Scout Sniper; 10-06-2019 at 04:27 PM.
-
-
10-06-2019 03:37 PM
# ADS
Friends and Sponsors
-
Legacy Member
Just got on the lathe at work and turned down the 4BA locating pin...
Attachment 103228
-
-
-
Legacy Member
What sort of lubricant is best for the plunger's and index wheels?
A grease of sum kind I'm guessing?
-
-
Unless Peter says differently I'd use graphite grease.
The backdrop in the photo's is purely coincidental, you understand....... (I like to have a pleasant working environment).
Last edited by Roger Payne; 10-09-2019 at 11:52 AM.
-
Thank You to Roger Payne For This Useful Post:
-
Legacy Member
Graphite grease, the horrible silver coloured stuff?
-
-
If it rotates it's grease. If it slides, it's graphite. Graphite should be a deep grey. There is a difference between graphite grease and graphited grease. Graphiteg grease is GP grease with a graphite content and slightly runny while the thicker XG340 or graphite powder that is greased
-
The Following 3 Members Say Thank You to Peter Laidler For This Useful Post:
-
Legacy Member
Got on the mill today and drilled and tapped the 8 x 8BA holes. Very time consuming, mainly as they are blind holes and keep withdrawing the tap and clearing the hole.
Think I had to do 4 runs with the tap, clearing the hole each time before hitting the bottom. Being so small I started the thread with a taper tap and got at least half way before switching to a plug tap.
The 4BA location pin hole was also done, no issues and pretty straightforward.
Here are pictures of it up on the machine, packed out with leather to protect the casting although getting the whole thing square and level was a challenge to say the least as the casting was a bit wonky.
I haven't bonded the turret to the tube yet but have fitted it up to get a good idea of how it's looking. Also need to grease and fit the springs and plunger's.
Really close now, very happy with the results so far.
Attachment 103254Attachment 103253Attachment 103255
-
-
Legacy Member
Here's how were looking...
Was actually a blessing the 8 index plate holes were not drilled as the screws I was provided for those positions were not 8BA but metric.
Was nice to be able to fit the correct size screw.
Attachment 103256
Last edited by Scout Sniper; 10-10-2019 at 02:01 PM.
-
Thank You to Scout Sniper For This Useful Post:
-
Contributing Member
Your results look very well. I am amazed by the outcome. Please make sure to add markings somewhere on the inside that any future owner will be able to tell this is a replica and noone can finally turn it into a non-distinguishable REL made No. 32 scope.
As a final notice, I would suggest you also to remove that "step" in the bracket (from the rear foot upwards). These have always bothered me when comparing them to originals. It simply looks ugly.
-
-
Legacy Member
It has the original No42 markings on the top so I hope that would ring alarm bells for anybody looking at this scope. But I will put a small mark inside.
I am very happy with the result, its come out better than i expected.
I know what your saying about the mount, it's now the thing that stands out the most as not being correct. May have to get the grinder out.
-