Fitting trigger guard bushing on No 4 Mk 1*

[jsudduth]

Hello everyone. I have a Longbranch No 4 Mk 1* that is in quite good condition other than the fact it seems a previous owner removed a bit too much material from the trigger guard bushing. I’ve come to this opinion for two reasons. First, when tightening the trigger guard screw, the first stage will eventually disappear the more the screw is tightened down. It never tightens against the bushing before the first stage has long disappeared. Second, I’ve acquired a NOS bushing and it is about .115” longer than the one currently on the rifle.

Now to the point of this post. In reading Mr. Laidler’s write up about getting the length of the bushing right I am a bit confused in a couple places. Here’s the pertinent section quoted.

“The COLLAR. You MUST have a collar and spring washer. This is what WE used to do. Put the front trigger guard screw into the trigger guard and body WITHOUT the washer or collar. Reverse it (that’s anti-clockwise .....) until you hear it click over the start thread and tighten it BUT COUNT THE TURNS UNTIL IT TIGHTENS AND LOCKS?”

It’s the words in bold text that have me stumped. With the bushing and washer removed and forend in place I never get to a state I would consider “locked”. I’ve read about any post I could dig up via search but could not find anything to clear it up for me. In the context of this discussion what exactly is meant by “locked”?

When the “body” is referenced is that the forend? Do you remove the wood and count turns until the screw bottoms out? Leave the wood in place but no bushing and crank down on the screw until it’s good and tight? I’m afraid of bending the trigger guard if I do that.

Thanks for any assistance.

Jim

Information

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[CINDERS]

Just make sure your mag well surround on the trigger guard is level and not bent down this may explain when you tighten the screw down the first pressure disappears.
I think its meant to mean won't tighten any further if you cannot get it to bottom out and tighten up then the threads in the receiver might be cactus, I think the wood fore end has to be on I am sure others who have the finesse will be along in a second......

By the way welcome to milsurps have a Good Xmas & Happy New Year.

[Alan de Enfield]

When the “body” is referenced is that the forend? Do you remove the wood and count turns until the screw bottoms out? Leave the wood in place but no bushing and crank down on the screw until it’s good and tight? I’m afraid of bending the trigger guard if I do that.

"Body" is the correct term for what some call the 'Action'

Yes, count the turns until the screw 'bottoms-out'.

Then follow the instructions :

BUT COUNT THE TURNS UNTIL IT TIGHTENS AND LOCKS. Say, that it’s 7 ¼ turns to lock. (Without the collar)

Now do this with the collar fitted if it’s now, say 6 ½ turns, shorten the collar, a smidgin at a time, until the screw tightens up at exactly 7 ¼ turns.

Now reassemble the rifle and you KNOW that the screw is tight, the fore-end is tight between the trigger guard and the screw and you are not crushing the living daylights out of the fore-end.

[HKPB]

It’s the words in bold text that have me stumped. With the bushing and washer removed and forend in place I never get to a state I would consider “locked”. I’ve read about any post I could dig up via search but could not find anything to clear it up for me. In the context of this discussion what exactly is meant by “locked”?

I've also been trying to get my head around these instructions recently. I believe "locked" simply means tightened down rather than "bottomed out" (in the sense of the screw reaching the bottom of the threaded hole in the body). For the two No4 rifles I currently have apart on the bench (a Mk1 and a Mk1*, both Savage manufactured), the front trigger guard screw runs out of threads long before it bottoms out - even when you try with with the body removed from the forend and the collar omitted. Plus, you don't really want a screw that's supplying clamping force to ever bottom out in a blind hole.

When the “body” is referenced is that the forend? Do you remove the wood and count turns until the screw bottoms out? Leave the wood in place but no bushing and crank down on the screw until it’s good and tight? I’m afraid of bending the trigger guard if I do that.

The body does need to be installed in the forend when following Peter Laidler's process. I think the only reason to do this with the body removed from the forend is if you get the same number of turns with and without the collar installed. In that case, the collar might be a perfect length or it might be too short. Counting turns without the wood will show you if it's the latter.