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Legacy Member
That sounds like a combination of possible problems. A dirty/partially plugged gas port and a dirty extractor spring. Either would contribute to that problem. Get a bolt tool and take down the bolt. Carefully remove the extractor/extractor plunger and extractor spring and clean them thoroughly as well as the hole the spring and plunger go into. Chances are, that will be enough to resolve that issue. Carbines can be sensitive to built up crude in the extractor system. And while you have the bolt apart, it would be a good idea to clean out the firing pin channel too. Crude can build up at the front of the hole and "cushion" the firing pin strike against the primer.
When they tell you to behave, they always forget to specify whether to behave well or badly!
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01-06-2020 11:34 AM
# ADS
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Contributing Member
Originally Posted by
mchatcommander
Any more information you need?
What manufacturer made your carbine?
Originally Posted by
mchatcommander
New problem is I am getting random misfires where the firing pin will hit the primer but not hard enough to fire the round.
Light primer strikes can be caused by a number of issues ie.., short firing pin, weak hammer spring, gummed up bolt, deformed firing pin, excessive headspace, action not fully closing (See jimb16 post #6 and #11), binding of the hammer within the trigger housing, broken firing pin.
Last edited by W5USMC; 01-06-2020 at 12:57 PM.
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Originally Posted by
W5USMC
binding of the hammer within the trigger housing
I had that one happen to me. It was caused by too much gap between the TH and the cut-out in the stock. The trigger pin would back out enough to allow the trigger or sear to cause the hammer to bind. Had to make a slightly longer trigger pin to get it working again. - Bob
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Legacy Member
Take a close look at the tip of the firing pin under magnification. Some are so worn and broken at the tip and yet look fine. There is usually a reason why a part is no longer in the carbine. The F.P. is one of the more troublesome parts in a carbine. Lots of trouble with heat treating.
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sorry for the late response
I have some more pictures and I think the manufacturer.
I do have the firing pin tool and I can look at that, I have taken it apart before.
So in the manufacturer location below the rear site it says.
It is a National Ordinance.
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Legacy Member
OP
some background material for you
Commercial Carbines
M1CarbinesInc.com
National ord
National Ordnance
Former Prairie Submarine Commander
"To Err is Human, To Forgive is Divine. Neither of Which is SAC Policy."
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Legacy Member
That may just explain all of the problems as its a commercially made carbine and not USGI. They were the New Inland or Auto Ordnance of its day. Some good but more with problems.
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Thank You to Bruce McAskill For This Useful Post:
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Legacy Member
OK thanks for the advice, so I took a look at the gas piston, and noted that the bolt that holds the piston in was super loose which I understands a problem because all the videos I watches said it would require a vice hold it while you unscrewed it with the special tool(which dangit I can't stand how many "special tools" the carbine needs). So this was a surprise to be able to unscrew it with my fingers I have cleaned it out, i think/hope but I think I am going to need to buy a new bolt at minimum... and the stupid tool. I also took the bolt apart replaced the springs and cleaned it. Hopefully this will address the misfires.
Part of me thinks I should sell the gun and move on, but I have spent well over 200 dollars (sight tool, bolt tool, new rear sight, springs, magazine catch, magazine spring, couple new mags) I feel like I would lose 200+ dollars on this gun selling it.
As for the magazine issue I can think of two things buy an new trigger housing which might address the issue(but sink more money into the thing. or try to affix a piece of steel to the magazine catch to give it a bit more length so it can push against the magazine. Thoughts?
I will also see about head space. I don't know much about that.
I have read mixed reviewed of the National Ordinance, from their a decent gun to their going to blow up and kill you. Not sure what to think about it.
Last edited by mchatcommander; 01-12-2020 at 07:13 PM.
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Legacy Member
You don't need a tool for the castle nut that holds the piston in the gas cylinder. Use a good set of pliers to just tighten it down a bit. NOT supper hard as you can crack the cylinder. Put it back together and take it to the range for a trail. If you do get rid of it you can always list the tools here for sale. Good luck.
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Originally Posted by
Bruce McAskill
ou don't need a tool for the castle nut that holds the piston i
Years ago I built one by grinding a 1/4" drive socket to make a tool. Works well, and quite cheap.
Ed reluctantly no longer in the Bitterroot
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