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Advisory Panel
Yes Birch, as far as I've heard Beech was other things such as No 4 rifles with the fishscale grain look. US weapons had Birch. Always came out redish like that or orange.
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06-03-2020 11:14 AM
# ADS
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Legacy Member
That is a beautiful stock. Possibly the handguard was modified by some prior owner. You should have only about 1/16" fore/aft movement in the hand guard and little to no vertical movement. The barrel band should be tight against the shoulder of the stock and the band catch spring should snap into place when it is. The barrel clamp should grip the barrel but not be tight enough to scratch it when moved for take-down/assembly.
'Really Senior Member'
Especially since I started on the original Culver forum. That had to be about 1998.
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In the picture (OP's other thread) the handguard fit doesn't look that bad. If it's .2" short, there must be very little of the front lip stlll present. I've measured several of my handguards and most are right at 8" (tape measure accuracy) for the length of the wood from the step (behind the lip) at the front to the very back edge where the metal attaches. I have one MU marked handguard (probably a repro) that kept flying off and found it to be too short. I've seen a few front band springs (likely not USGI) that don't have a well defined notch behind the nub that engages the barrel band. Those can allow the band to slip forward when the gun is fired. - Bob
Last edited by USGI; 06-04-2020 at 07:23 PM.
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Contributing Member
Here's a close up comparison picture of the birch top wood front end.
The top example is the replacement I had that works without fault, (coincidentally, it's dimensions are exactly the same as the Walnut M1A1 top wood).
The bottom is the short example, the whole front tapers to the right and the flange is noticeably shorter.
No manufacturers markings on either example.
.303, helping Englishmen express their feelings since 1889
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Thank You to mrclark303 For This Useful Post:
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Clark,
1: You could build the front lip out longer and skim a little over the top of the lip using JB Weld 8257 KwikWood Epoxy putty stick.
It dries to a light tan color, says it will take stain, but don't count on it. The color wont be seen anyway.
Stuff is strong and can be sanded or filed to a uniform look after curing.
Runs around $6-$7 us for a 3.5" stick of it. Simply cut what you need and reseal the rest.
Much easier and $cheaper than trying to find a hand guard that will match as nice as that one does.
I've used it and can vouch for its strength.
2: Clear Krazy glue will build it out also.
Again Good Luck,
PS Found a link:
J-B Weld 8257 KwikWood Wood Repair Epoxy Putty Stick- 3.5 inch, Tan - Wood Fill - Amazon.com
PSS
If you try the Epoxy Putty Stick, mix in a drip or two of a Maple color stain so it will better match your Birch HG.
Last edited by painter777; 06-04-2020 at 09:55 PM.
Charlie-Painter777
A Country Has No Greater Responsibility Than To Care For Those Who Served...
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The Following 2 Members Say Thank You to painter777 For This Useful Post:
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Contributing Member
Many thanks for your advice Charlie, luckily the replacement after oiling is a dead ringer for the stock.
I gave that another oiling last night as well as the new top wood.
The birch started out almost white, with a thin coat of protective storage wax, to keep boring Beatles away, I should think?
It's going a lovely honey colour, slowly but surely.
I am surprised to hear there's modern replacement woodwork available, I assumed there would be large quantities of original still available with 6 million Carbines made, plus spare woodwork.
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