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Contributing Member
All good suggestions but I’d add picking up a dental pick set. Seems like there’s always some spot a brush won’t quite reach and if it’s old cruddy buildup and hard, picks dig it out nicely. Good for cleaning out vent hole in sizing dies and a million other things. And a USB and/or WiFi bore scope is handy as heck.
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06-17-2020 02:35 PM
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It wasn't there when I began my post. I saw your correction that was submitted (2) minutes before mine, afterwards. I thanked you for it and even read the information in your link. I can delete my post if it makes you feel better. PM me if that's what you expect.
- Bob
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Exterior metal wiped off and oiled down after use before putting it in the case.
When home, If it was damp/wet out during use let the case dry out.
I clean the Bore after every use. Was brought up that way.
If using it in the next day or two I'll just use the rod, patches and brush to a lesser degree than described below.
If putting it up with plans of using again in the next couple weeks:
I First pull the barreled receiver out of the wood, pull Op slide, bolt and trigger housing.
Bolt and Trigger housing are sprayed, brushed, dried off and lightly oiled. Break them down when build up isn't rinsing off as described to save wear on parts/bolt tools. Usually every 200-300 shots especially after using 296 powder.
I don't use the pull thru bore cleaners (yet).
Any rod attachment is attached inside the magwell, brush or patch and always unscrewed after exiting the muzzle.. just to re-attach again in the magwell to repeat.
I run a rod down the muzzle and then screw on and pull a patch forward first until it clears the chamber. Slow pull to bring debris out of the muzzle. Repeat this with fresh patches until I see no loose gunk. Then use the same method with a brush as needed. Back to patches soaked in solvent using same method multiple times. Giving the solvent time to soak. Back to patches, when dry patches are staying clean, then a lightly oiled patch. Little slower but the way I'm used to doing it. For a Chamber brush I just use a loose brush (brass) and spin/push / pull by my fingers with a cut off piece of cleaning rod attached about 1" long.... just enough to be able to finger grip.
I like the Pull Thru Rod method but do so with the barrel in a horizontal position, But upside down. Hopes being I'm not pushing grime in to the angled gas hole.
Any time I've handled a gun I back my way off of it wiping it down with a lightly oiled rag.
Don't overlook your mags. Mags are cleaned inside and out, and oil rag wiped. Surprising how little use it takes to get the inside of a mag dirty.
I won't bore you all with my 'Cleaning and Treatments' for long term storage.
We have it easy to the recommended cleaning methods published IIRC in the 1942 GI manual where they were cleaning with hot soapy water multiple times in a day...... just to continue so the following day.
If I get time I'll look for that and link it so anyone interested can read it.
Stick with the cleaning methods that work for you.
Many ways, many products.
How often to clean and how to depends on you and products, type of ammo and the conditions you shoot in. Take care how you store your guns.
Stick with the methods that give you your best results.
Which method is best?
Maybe easier?....... To choose between Mary Ann or Ginger 
Charlie-Painter777
A Country Has No Greater Responsibility Than To Care For Those Who Served...
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Legacy Member
Thanks for all the further tips and processes. If there's one thing I've learned from shooting both my M1
Carbine and other semi-autos (let along bolt-actions) is that they must be cared for the same as any machine. With all these posts, I'll be on the right track as I complete the reset of my cleaning procedures (i.e. I did not know that bore scopes were a thing, going to be looking into those haha, I've had enough with the weird flashlight positions to see down the Carbine's bore!).
---------- Post added at 07:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:07 PM ----------

Originally Posted by
painter777
I First pull the barreled receiver out of the wood, pull Op slide, bolt and trigger housing.
In Ruth's book, there is a statement to the effect that taking the action about the stock may cause accuracy issues. I've seen other people on forums downplaying this impact on accuracy and stressing the need to take it apart to thoroughly clean it for long-ish duration storage (i.e. your interval of a few weeks). Any thoughts on this potential impact to accuracy? (Not that it matters on my M1 Carbine at present since I have yet to install the rear sight in a manner that doesn't have it wobbling in the dovetail with each shot haha).
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Contributing Member

Originally Posted by
Pedantic_Potato
Thanks for all the further tips and processes. If there's one thing I've learned from shooting both my
M1
Carbine and other semi-autos (let along bolt-actions) is that they
must be cared for the same as any machine. With all these posts, I'll be on the right track as I complete the reset of my cleaning procedures (i.e. I did not know that bore scopes were a thing, going to be looking into those haha, I've had enough with the weird flashlight positions to see down the Carbine's bore!).
---------- Post added at 07:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:07 PM ----------
In Ruth's book, there is a statement to the effect that taking the action about the stock may cause accuracy issues. I've seen other people on forums downplaying this impact on accuracy and stressing the need to take it apart to thoroughly clean it for long-ish duration storage (i.e. your interval of a few weeks). Any thoughts on this potential impact to accuracy? (Not that it matters on my M1 Carbine at present since I have yet to install the rear sight in a manner that doesn't have it wobbling in the dovetail with each shot haha).
Curious about accuracy after taking in and out of the woodwork, considering they were never exactly 'tack drivers' and bedded is rather basic to say the least, so would there really be any 'perceivable' difference in accuracy?
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Legacy Member
Not relevant to the thread really, but I've found the Mini14 needs very little cleaning. Almost cleans itself. This from shooting many thousands of rounds in competition. Thorough cleaning annually and re-oiling as necessary. Well, my Mini14 was like that, could still shoot better than I could hold after all those rounds.
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I think as long as you have the recoil plate set up to where the barrel floats above the stock forend just a little bit, you should be okay
"good night Chesty, Wherever You Are"
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I take the rifle out of the stock to clean after every range trip, but I'm not a match shooter, nor are my m1's match rifles. I don't notice any degrading of accuracy in my rifles. FWIW
John
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There are probably two very important cleaning tips with the M1
Carbine; do not clean from the muzzle, and do clean with the barrel upside down (gas piston high) so oil, etc., can't get into the gas port/piston area. As long as your carbine is in military condition as far as fitting, there's no reason to not take it out of the stock. I would not normally remove the recoil plate during cleaning.
'Really Senior Member'

Especially since I started on the original Culver forum. That had to be about 1998.
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