2A1 Ishapore terrible accuracy + other problems

[mrclark303]

I might be tempted to replace the forend to be honest, that one has certainly taken a real hammering.

What's the availability of 2A1 forends guys?

[Alan de Enfield]

I might be tempted to replace the forend to be honest, that one has certainly taken a real hammering.

What's the availability of 2A1 forends guys?

I was going to suggest that, but the work involved in fitting a new forend (or even a 'pre-loved' forend) can be as much as repairing the original.

I replaced a forend on a No1 Mk3* and had huge problems - the most difficiult to resolve was that with the new (old) forend in place the rifle would not fire - without it, fired no problem.The new wood was 'fouling' the trigger assembly, I tried with a forend of a No1 Mk3 in 410 calibre and it worked perfectly, put the other forend on the 410 and it also worked perfectly.
Every rifle is an individual.

Remember that these rifles were the last of the 'Victorian engineering, hand built' rifles (unlike the No4 where most parts were interchangeable) and the wood work has to be FITTED to each individual rifle.

There are 5 important parts that must stay together and these were numbered by armourers (if they were not already numbered) these were :

Bolt
Barrel
Rear Sight
Nose-piece
Forend.

Replace any one and the rifle had to be re-worked to get accuracy back again.


From the 1931 issue of "Instruction to Armourers":

1. General.—Examine the rifle to see that the number, and the series letter where marked, on the
nose-cap, fore-end, sight leaf, barrel and bolt agree with the number on the body, and that the rifle is
complete. Record deficiencies, if any and damage due to unfair wear for report.

[Roger Payne]

Come to that (I know buXXer all about 2A1's) is the 2A1 forend exactly the same in all the important places as that for a standard SMLE in .303? If so, that would make sourcing a replacement a little easier....

[30Three]

You will find Capt' Peter Laidler's methods for repair on this site. They are essential reading before you do anything else.
Also, before getting too far into the woodwork jobs. It might be worth checking the barrel for wear and also the headspace.
Not much point spending time on the woodwork repairs only to find out the headspace is over limits and the barrel is toast.

[Roger Payne]

That's a good point about the barrel. Apart from general wear, even a minor muzzle bulge will give you shotgun pattern groups as it will muck up the gyroscopic stability imparted on the bullet by the rifling. Might be worth having a close look at the barrel. Getting soil stuck in the muzzle & not noticing before firing a rifle is a common cause of muzzle bulging ('ringing').

[CINDERS]

I am no real guru on them but the bottom wood the draws look to have been repaired before as there is a vertical dowel through both of them plus the left ones chipped besides they look mushed and the back end of the bottom wood well that tells the whole story shagged? Get a NOS or good 2nd hand and fit it up plenty of info on this site on how to's.

[mrclark303]

I am no real guru on them but the bottom wood the draws look to have been repaired before as there is a vertical dowel through both of them plus the left ones chipped besides they look mushed and the back end of the bottom wood well that tells the whole story shagged? Get a NOS or good 2nd hand and fit it up plenty of info on this site on how to's.

I'm with Ron on this one, so much damage and old repairs, I would fit a replacement and set about the fun and games of bedding.

As said, plenty of correct 'how to' resources on here to absorb....

[Roger Payne]

Absolutely. I agree entirely with the comments about the forend, hence my remarks about whether a standard Mk3/3* SMLE forend is identical, & perhaps easier to source as a replacement. However, I was just wondering if there could be something else as well.........in his opening post the OP stated that the rifle was producing two foot groups at 50 yds..............that's pretty bad............

[Singer B]

I happen to know a pretty good certified gunsmith who is excellent with Enfields, especially the talent of fitting the stocks to the barrels and actions. He is retired but does small side jobs to keep busy. He resides in the Coachella Valley, about 1.5 hours from San Diego. I would be happy to send you his telephone number if that will help you out.

[browningautorifle]

Yes, it does seem to be sprung outwards. Perhaps that is a factory defect, or some strange abuse happened to it. I am guessing that the steel is not too brittle and that it would it be best to just install the pin to keep the holes aligned and bend it inward until it is touching the trigger on both sides, or should there be some gap?

Not magic, just give it a squeeze until it's snug fit again. Can't imagine how it got opened up. Seems to be the least here though.