Nice Mk Vl fore-end in that video.

The catch with Lee-Enfields is that they use TWO-piece furniture. (Four if you count the hand-guards). Thus a lot of the bedding methods that are commonly used on Mauser type systems simply do not apply.

Starting with the butt:

The forward end is not only a funny shape in section, it is tapered. At the factory, the butts, utterly soaked in linseed oilicon, were installed on a special press that FORCED the butt to fully enter the "ferrule' at the rear of the body. There MUST be a gap between the shoulder of the butt and the rear face of the ferrule. ALL of the recoil is supposed to be transferred via the very front and the "wedge" portion of the front of the butt. IF the recoil is being transferred via the shoulder of the butt, chipping and splintering will occur.

SMLEs and earlier did not use "lock / spring" washers. Such modern technology finally arrived with the No 4. Instead, the butt screw, which has a bog-standard Whitworth form thread, was wound in with a serious screwdriver until is 'squeaked" AND, most importantly, the square section on the tip of the thread protruded THROUGH the butt ferrule and was dead-square with the body alignment. This is whee so many perfectly good fore-ends have met their ends. If you cheerfully try to remove the butt before removing the fore-end of a SMLE, you WILL damage the fore-end. The square tip on the screw neatly fits the steel plate inletted into the rear of the fore-end, Sufficient torque applied to the screwdriver will cause that plate to rotate and rupture the fore-end timber.

Putting the butt on FIRST also helps further assembly; clamping the butt in PADDED jaws of a BIG vise makes for a stable platform for the assembly of a lot of the other fiddly bits.

NONE of these tasks was EVER to be performed by "enthusiastic amateurs"; rather by well-trained fitters and armourers using all the correct tools in well-equipped facilities. There are photos from a series of major wars showing gun-plumbers doing weapons surgery under a rudimentary canvas or often, out in the open, but they had their magic tool kits and portable benches to hand. Caveat: there was ALWAYS "triage". If a weapon, be it a revolver or a Vickers MG, was deemed beyond local repair, it was sent rearwards to a more comprehensive facility. After-action "battlefield pickups" usually went straight back up the line. for treatment. The "Two-Way Shooting Range" is an interesting place, if you like that sort of thing.

There are several very good reasons why the screw in the outer band / front swivel assembly is STAKED in, as a final act. Firstly, it could NOT shake loose and thus set all of the fore-end components adrift. Secondly, it kept "adventurous" Tommies and Diggers, etc. from exploring. The catch, again in "civvie" hands, is that most folk don't get why that screw is a mongrel to remove and why their outer band seems to have a "dodgy thread" afterwards, especially in the Lithgowicon brass bands. (More cowbell??). The flared tip of that screw was MEANT to be carefully drilled out and DISCARDED any time the rifle was undergoing a complete inspection or repairs to the fore-end region. It's a government-supplied system; spares were supplied in a specific schedule and these screws used to be incredibly common because they were expected to be consumed at a rate of at least one per rifle per year for the estimated service life of the rifle fleet. Unsurprisingly, they also fit the rear sling swivel assembly. These days, we have weapons-grade Loctite. However, I use Loctite 290, which is applied AFTER assembly. It also does not set like concrete. a la 620, etc..

Paper packing under the trigger-guard? EEEK!!