Quote Originally Posted by 30Three View Post
To correct the barrel alignment; which in my case was due to poor contact on the draws. I removed a very small amount of material from the contact face of the draws, to even them up.
Then I made some brass shims; actually cut from a .303 case which I opened up and flattened out. This has varying thickness; so I made several shims for testing.
I fitted a shim to one side and selected the thickness that would start to feel snug when fitting the fore end, and would push the barrel slightly off straight.
I then removed it and fitted a shim to the other side until i'd found a thickness which had the same effect; snug fit and slightly pushing the barrel away.
When I fitted both, the barrel was straight down the middle and a nice snug fit at the rear end.
I also had some othe minor issues; high spot's in the barrel channel etc. New spring for the fornt pad etc. But once completed with good contact at the knox form and correct up pressure.
Final result was a huge improvement; now shooting around 2 MOA instead of 12MOA.

I realise that The shims I fitted are not exactly standard practice; but was unwilling to risk knackering the fore end with poor wood working skills at that time.
There is no epoxy in my rifle.
Thanks for the reply 30Three,

I think cause I have the trashed sporter forend lying around I will give a few different methods a shot with that before I mess with the main forend.

I like this idea as I don't necessarily feel confident in my woodworking skills, I will update this thread with my practice, and hopefully the end result.

CanadianLanBoy
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