Removing Lee Enfield Firing Pins

[Richard47]

Make one out of a nut driver. (screwdriver for nuts) I have one that will stick on the tapered pin, I didn't even have to grind it, I use it 'as is". Size is 3/16. It takes Enfield pins right out.

Information

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[busdriver72]

I just ordered a complete bolt assembly after the tool (with ample amounts of lube) didn't budge it....and I broke the tool.

[Cantom]

I just ordered a complete bolt assembly after the tool (with ample amounts of lube) didn't budge it....and I broke the tool.

I bought a really nice tool recently, it worked easily on the first bolt I tried it on. Second bolt...wasn't moving and I made the decision to leave it as it was, I don't want to break the tool. I wonder if the threshold is, whatever you can get apart using a good tool by hand, take apart. Otherwise, maybe they were meant for each other...

Someone got into the fact that sometimes there's some nasty varnish on the threads plus some thread damage/burred threads that make it almost impossible to get apart.

[ikesdad]

I made one out of a 1/4" drive 5mm deep well socket and my Dremel tool.

[tomjw3]

Good morning, this is my first post on this site so be gentle During there long service life these rifles some times would have the firing pins come loose. When the armmor found a loose fireing pin he would peen the end of the pin to tighten it up, that is the reasion that some will come out and some will not. Also the no.1 and the no.4 have identical pins except for the thread pitch. the no. 1 is based on the enfield inch and the no.4 is BSF this can cause problems if a No.1 firing pin is screwed into a no. 4 cocking peice and visa-versa. If the pin is peened TIGHTEN it up and file all the way around the end of the pin to remove the mushroomed metel. If the threads dont match you will have to heat up the cocking peice to get it off. It should not take a lot of heat.
You will have to excuse the spelling the spell checker isn't working but I think you will get my meaning.

[britarms]

Yes, I was going to mention the different thread issue, but you beat me to it.

Don't ask me how I learned about it!

Good morning, this is my first post on this site so be gentle During there long service life these rifles some times would have the firing pins come loose. When the armmor found a loose fireing pin he would peen the end of the pin to tighten it up, that is the reasion that some will come out and some will not. Also the no.1 and the no.4 have identical pins except for the thread pitch. the no. 1 is based on the enfield inch and the no.4 is BSF this can cause problems if a No.1 firing pin is screwed into a no. 4 cocking peice and visa-versa. If the pin is peened TIGHTEN it up and file all the way around the end of the pin to remove the mushroomed metel. If the threads dont match you will have to heat up the cocking peice to get it off. It should not take a lot of heat.
You will have to excuse the spelling the spell checker isn't working but I think you will get my meaning.

[Frank46]

I've made the firing pin tool out of a piece of 1/8 NPT pipe. Filed the outside to clear the threads inside the bolt body, then cut the teeth again with the file.Case hardened with kasenit and used JB weld on the other threaded end to screw into a 1/8 NPT "T" fitting. Then two more 3" long NPT nipples in the "T" fitting and your done. The case hardening was done after the first tool had the
first set of teeth shear off while trying to remove a stubborn enfield firing pin. One good tip. I usually put the cocking piece in between two small oak blocks and then into a vise. The oak protects the cocking piece from the jaws of the vise. And while in the vise you can apply more torque than holding it in your hand. Also prevents forcing the cocking piece up against the slot in the bolt body and possible damage. If it breaks (firing pin tool) just make another. But so far has held up very well. Also, sometimes the recess on the firing pin may have burrs on them. It helps to remove these burrs and prevent damage to the threads on the cocking piece. I have a long branch bolt that the locking screw for the cocking piece will not go all the way into its hole. Reason, large burr where the recess on the firing pin was machined. Need a carbide burr and dremel to remove it to prevent damage to the threads. Frank

[Cantom]

Make one out of a nut driver. (screwdriver for nuts) I have one that will stick on the tapered pin, I didn't even have to grind it, I use it 'as is". Size is 3/16. It takes Enfield pins right out.

Will this grip on the really really stuck ones? When the normal tools fail is on those, most on here have broken several of the tools. Got pics of this showing for example where it holds on a firing pin?

[Frank46]

From what I've read here about diasembeling the lee enfield bolt there could just be more that what we are seeing. I recently bought a 1942 long branch and as is my usual routine with a new rifle, I completely disasemble it for a through clean and inspect. About the only thing I could not do was remove the cocking piece from the bolt. In a good strong light it was noticed that when the circular cut was made for the screw head the threads themselves were cut and not too evenly. In fact in my case I had to resort to using one of the dremel tools tiny grinding bits to clean things up. The way the threads were buggered up they would have interferred with trying to screw the cocking piece off the back end of the firing pin. I wnt to the garage and set the bolt between two blocks of wood. Then very carefully ground away any damage probably done by the gent running the machine caused while cutting the relief for the retaining screw. Once I had it apart, I cleaned up the threads with a triangular needle file and just before reinstalling the firing pin I liberally coated the threads with never seize. And scrubbed out the threaded hole in the cocking piece with an old bore brush and then oiled the threads. So for a few minutes work I can now take the firing pin out with no further problems. But having experience in working with steam powered machinery I can say that on some occasions there is nothing like a good application of heat. If that came to pass, I'd whip out my trusty coleman propane tank and torch and apply the heat to the area of the cocking piece where the threads run through it. You really don't want to get it too hot like glowing red, but a good heat so as to expand the metal and have whatever gunk is in ther release its grip on the threads. Then clean both the threaded section of the firing pin and the threaded hole in the cocking piece. I use pipe cleaners soaked with kroil and run a old bore brush to scrub the remaining gunk that still might be in there. Then clean both parts and oil and reassemble in reverse order. Frank