A comprehensive answer since I just assumed you asked for one...and a disclaimer...take it with a grain of salt. Everyone thinks "THEIR" way is superior, and everyone else is an idiot, and some people are more vocal than others about letting you know it.
Having one of those cheap bore cams simplified my cleaning routine on all my firearms, as well as cleared my shelves of the myriad of different products. At 20 bucks, it's worth more than any more expensive bottle of novelty solvent or gun cleaner. Take a look after each step of your process. You will learn what works and how it's working, and what isn't.
On milsurps, I clean as soon as I get back from the range (see point 0. I don't want it to sit without any lubricant's protection in the bore.). The simpler the process, the more likely you won't be too lazy to do it after shooting all day. The cheaper the process, the more likely you will do it more often, and not skimp on products.
0) before shooting - like on my way out the door to the range, I patch out the barrel with denatured alcohol to remove all lubricant - cheap and effective. Oils in your barrel will burn to the metal when shooting like putting oil in a pan when it's too hot. Having that inside your barrel will also look like it's still dirty after hours of scrubbing.
1) After shooting, bronze brush and cheap ole hoppes no. 9. Don't get carried away 2 dozen strokes is usually enough for me. patch out dry. With milsurps, patches will keep coming out dirty for weeks as the carbon soaked solvent is pushed in to every nook and cranny. don't sweat it. Hoppes loosens all the carbon great, but doesn't "wick it away" all that good. All oil based carbon solvents suck at the wick away or dissolving part. It's just chemistry. Just patch till the bore is dry.
2) I use sweets because it's fast and effective. Follow the instructions on the bottle, that is patch back and forth for a 60 seconds, then patch out till dry. On really bad copper fouling barrels, I may do this twice.
3) remove all traces of solvents. I use denatured alcohol. Soap and water works too. At this stage, you'll notice your patches come out pretty nice and white, whereas after (1) you would go through a thousand patches and each one would come out dirty no matter how hard you scrubbed.
4) lubricate and protect till next time. But first, read this controlled experiment that brownells did.
https://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn...aspx?lid=10700
I use a wet patch with wd40 so it gets in all the imperfections inside these old barrels. Remove excess by running a dry patch through. If it's a rifle I don't shoot that often...it gets a patch liberally coated in RIG for reasons in the article above - move it back and forth vigourously (use a bore guide warning, use coated rod, etc...). the RIG melts and flows with a smallest amount of friction.
All this takes me less than 10 minutes - no longer than it takes for my young kiddos to look at my targets and offer their criticism while I clean. Once a year or so, depending on how often I shoot the rifle, I use JB paste to give a good deep clean, along with removing the stock and preserving everything with RIG. Wall hangers, or rifles that rarely ever get shot, I follow the NRA museum's guidelines with renaissance wax.
http://www.nramuseum.org/media/10073...20wicklund.pdf
Why not just use renaissance wax on everything you ask? Well, RIG protection is great, but won't last 100years. It will eventually dry out if not re-applied. However unlike renaissance wax, the body heat in your fingers is enough to melt RIG so it isn't removed when you handle it. Renaissance wax, with its superior durability and longevity, will be removed with handling. So, RIG on things you will remove or handle regularly, and take care of. Renaissance wax on all else, and only handle with a soft cloth or felt gloves just like the museums.