my new, broken 1903a3

[ssgross]

Just for funzies, I asked the seller if he knew anything. He replied with
"Sorry no idea. A guy brought it in to me. He got it from his dad and had no clue. He said he used it deer hunting about 20 years ago and it was fine. Then put it away and when he took it out it was broke."
Well, I would have never guessed 20 years of storage could break a stock like that!

[browningautorifle]

I repaired a little Cooey .22 rifle stock once years ago for an armorer friend. The stock was in several small pieces and had a spiral crack as well. I reassembled it and sanded and stained...returned it and stood proudly presenting my work for his expert inspection. He looked at it and said..."Now WHAT exactly was wrong with this stock?" Where do you start...why would you. I just walked away.

[ssgross]

order from Numrich came in...a new bolt body with bent/milled handle. It's marked CC at the root..very pretty. New safety lever to replace the Buehler low profile one...suppose I'll hang on to it in case I want to take this rifle hunting. The original sleeve is still good...polished with very nice bluing to match the polished cocking piece. I will likely polish the new safety lever and blue to match the sleeve and cocking piece.
I didn't think about it until I was taking inventory...but I have a hard choice. Should I keep the original extractor? it's polished and left in the white (with collar to match) or I have a new one. Or I could blue the polished one. Hmm. I don't care so much about "correctness" in the finish since it's already such a queen.
The bands and furniture is all NOS, and blued. I've got time to decide.

[browningautorifle]

Should I keep the original extractor? it's polished and left in the white (with collar to match) or I have a new one. Or I could blue the polished one.

Can you flatten the polishing before bluing? Just a touch? Then it won't stand out much.

[ssgross]

Then it won't stand out much

I guess my question is whether I want it to stand out? Poyer and some sources online indicate that USMC teams would have their match 1903's with highly polished (blued) floor plate and extractor.
plenty of time to decide.
I finished scrubbing the receiver and parts, and assembled to check the trigger....there is no 1st stage, and breaks cleanly at 4lbs. Took it back apart to investigate and I found a tac weld or solder on the nose...
Attachment 116323Attachment 116322
I didn't like the trigger anyway...very deep rust on the surface of the shoe. I have an original 1903 trigger with serrated shoe in my parts bin. When comparing, the humps are the same, but the nose is thicker on the altered trigger. I always thought you played with filing the hump to lengthen the first stage. Makes sense that lifting the nose makes the first stage permanently engaged. I may file down the altered trigger, play with the first and second stages, just for the practice. Fun Fun!!!! Barrel and stock should come in over the weekend.

[ssgross]

indeed...the nose is 0.014 thicker on the ugly trigger.
...and my serrated trigger is bent to the side? oh well. vice and hammer straightened it out. it has 4 lb first stage, 6.75 total. I'll practice on the rusty welded trigger. I think I'd like to have 2.5lb ish first stage, and a crisp 2 + epsilon second stage.

EDIT: https://www.milsurps.com/showthread....ll=1#post42814
apparently, there is a proper way to adjust the trigger, and welding material to the nose of the trigger is NOT the right way.

[ssgross]

I cleaned up the Redfield Jr. S-spec that came with the rifle. It came with 1 inch rings - they had a lot of rust on them, but the base and screws were clean. I took the scope on my Gibbs repro to check if those rings would fit...they are loose. I was lucky to splurge and score a pair of 3/4 Redfield split tops.
Next...a disappointment. the bent bolt I bought on Numrich wasn't ground enough to clear the scope. So now I search, and read the horror stories on those bolts . Good thing I'm only out $30 for getting a stripped one. It looks weird compared to the Gibbs bolt. I'll take some pictures. I guess it was too good to be true. I suppose I'll do some grinding and play with it, but eventually send one of my extra original bodies off to chuck to be done right.
Checking fit and function, cocking on open is stiffer than it should be. After investigating, and using another bolt, I found that the firing rod spring is curved/bent. It doesn't compress nice and straight like my others.

[Calif-Steve]

Sarco is bad news. Try CMP Sales for a new GI barrel. Lots out there.

[ssgross]

Try CMP Sales for a new GI barrel

My first choice was a new criterion. No one has them. CMP is still so far behind - I've been waiting 6 months for a couple bayonets and still no word. Tried to call once they politely said they were behind and not to call anymore.
The Sarco barrel says new still packed in cosomoline. A few folks have reported that is exactly what they got. If that's not the case for me I will return it, and wait I suppose. In the meantime I suppose I'll sell my Gibbs while the market is hot.

[Remo]

1903 (not a3,m1 garand,1917) barrel,SA mint condition - Rifle Barrels at GunBroker.com : 894750016