First up, coat the contact areas with a sharpie or layout fluid (sharpie requires more work to wear off than layout fluid die). You want to mark the underside of the receiver, top of the trigger, face of the sear nose, and sear notch on the cocking piece. Here is what I found...
Attachment 117169Attachment 117170Attachment 117171Attachment 117172
The diagram shows ~1/8 inch engagement of the sear nose with the sear notch when in battery at rest. Looks like I have right about that, but it doesn't bear even, and the edges of sear nose and sear notch have some nicks or burrs. To get a better idea of how much engagement I'll have after evening out the faces, flip upside down and you can see where the sear engages and, using a sharp pencil or sharpie, mark the exposed part. Looks like I have more engagement than the layout fluid showed.
Attachment 117173Attachment 117174

Next, I used my stone to square off the edges of the sear nose and sear notch. The top of the sear nose is squared off thus, using the pin recess loop as a guide.
Attachment 117175
Use plenty of thin oil on your stone. go very slow to keep short, even and square strokes. Reassemble and check for even engagement (ignore doing anything about the feel for now). The goal here is to just knock down the high spots and burrs, we are not adjusting how deep the engagement is at this point. Clean the surfaces when you are done. Next, lightly stone any burrs off the top of the trigger, and polish the humps and the receiver bottom. The trigger tops are generally pretty smooth (I've never seen one that wasn't anyway)...a little rouge on a cloth dremmel bob works good. The parkerizing under the receiver is a bit rougher. Those little soft abrasive wheels I showed a picture of can be trimmed to the perfect width for the receiver by holding a razor blade to it while it spins. I knocked the park back with a gently touch of the 400 grit bob, followed by the 800 grit bob, and finally some rouge on the cloth wheel. There are likely tool marks in there, but we aren't removing them, just polishing will smooth their edges in the direction of the trigger's travel. I also very lightly polished the park on the inner side of the "ears" to remove any grit in the rotation of the sear. If I had a stone small enough to fit in the channel, I would have used a stone like the other contact areas. If you use a dremmel...use the slowest speed to control your work. Even the finest bob polishes quickly. Mine had already been lightly polished at some point, so this was very easy and fast.
Attachment 117177

Now we lubricate and reassemble, and dry fire a few hundred times. Eyes closed, front rest on the kitchen table, imagining a target but focused on feeling the trigger. You will likely have plenty of creep like I did, and you may not like the balance between first and second stage, or the weights of either. Make notes of what you have and what you want. If you did your job in the step above, even with awful creep it should feel like pulling a hot knife through butter. What to make note of to work on in the next step.
1) Is the trigger loose at rest? the front notch (the part with the weld on mine) may be too small, or the return spring may be weak cut too short, or broken.
2) Is the first stage well defined?
3) Make note of the balance of travel between the first stage, and the creep in the 2nd stage, e.g. mine was like 30% 1st, 70% second.

Next post, we will dive into how the different surfaces control each part of the pull, and adjust as needed or desired. Per the manual, total weight of 3-6 lbs with a well defined, longer 1st stage, and sufficient sear engagement in battery at rest is serviceable. You need minimum of 3.5lbs for the "games". We have some work to do on this one.