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I just got my Ross Model R from the auction house, and I love it, action is butter smooth, bore is good, and the gun is very handy.
The problem I'm facing is removing the barrel, I removed the keeper screw and there is some rust on the threads. The barrel refuses the budge, from what I'm reading in the manual the barrel shouldn't require much if any force to remove after the keeper screw was removed.
Any tips? Worse comes to worse I can bring it to the gunsmith and hook it up to his barrel vice.
I understand the threads are left hand.
Thanks for any and all responses!
(Rifle in question below)
Information
Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.
It looks as if you have the standard Ross 1905 Mk II R factory sporter. This is a cock on closing action, and it should have a push button safety on the bolt handle, and two action screws at the front of the floor place. I suggest that you soak the receiver/barrel junction with penetrating oil overnight, before you use brute force.
If your rifle has a cock on opening action, has a flag style safety and three action screws at the front of the floor plate, then you probably have a Ross 1905 Mk II** action, which requires a barrel vise and action wrench to remove the barrel.
Some do, some don't; some will, some won't; I might ...
I want to remove the barrel because, well, it should be able to be removed. If it is frozen because of rust, I would like to get it apart so I can remove that rust.
---------- Post added at 12:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:34 PM ----------
Originally Posted by NORTHOF60
It looks as if you have the standard Ross 1905 Mk II R factory sporter. This is a cock on closing action, and it should have a push button safety on the bolt handle, and two action screws at the front of the floor place. I suggest that you soak the receiver/barrel junction with penetrating oil overnight, before you use brute force.
If your rifle has a cock on opening action, has a flag style safety and three action screws at the front of the floor plate, then you probably have a Ross 1905 Mk II** action, which requires a barrel vise and action wrench to remove the barrel.
Hi,
The gun is a Model R, cock on close, and I can see it has the large threads through the holes that accept the 2 action screws.
After prolonged soaking, try holding the stripped receiver in your left hand and striking the receiver ring with a soft hammer (plastic, lead, leather, wood) This will caused a "whipping" vibration in the barrel that may loosen things off. A very careful use of heat would be another option.
The locking screw which you remove from the underside of the receiver pushes against a shoulder cut into the threads and this is what tightens the barrel into the receiver and keeps it tight. With that very steeply pitched thread, it doesn't take much to loosen it off usually.
Personally I would leave it alone unless there is a definite reason to remove the barrel. Bear in mind that it has seated itself over the decades of use and firing and if you disturb it you may find it is necessary to rotate it farther than before to get it tight. The result will be your sights are no longer perfectly vertical.
And the only way you will fix that is fidding around with shims etc. Not a desirable outcome.
Resist the temptation to go too far - it's common to almost all of us when new to the hobby.
“There are invisible rulers who control the destinies of millions. It is not generally realized to what extent the words and actions of our most influential public men are dictated by shrewd persons operating behind the scenes.”
After prolonged soaking, try holding the stripped receiver in your left hand and striking the receiver ring with a soft hammer (plastic, lead, leather, wood) This will caused a "whipping" vibration in the barrel that may loosen things off. A very careful use of heat would be another option.
The locking screw which you remove from the underside of the receiver pushes against a shoulder cut into the threads and this is what tightens the barrel into the receiver and keeps it tight. With that very steeply pitched thread, it doesn't take much to loosen it off usually.
Personally I would leave it alone unless there is a definite reason to remove the barrel. Bear in mind that it has seated itself over the decades of use and firing and if you disturb it you may find it is necessary to rotate it farther than before to get it tight. The result will be your sights are no longer perfectly vertical.
And the only way you will fix that is fidding around with shims etc. Not a desirable outcome.
Resist the temptation to go too far - it's common to almost all of us when new to the hobby.
Hi Surpmil,
I almost completely agree with what you said. I usually air on the side of "don't fix what doesn't need fixing". However, as the locking screw and it's hole in the action is really rusty, I have reason to believe the barrel threads are rusty as well. This rifle has been well maintained, and heavily used, shown by the lack of finish, but also lack of external rust. I want to make sure this rifle can be enjoyed for the rest of my lifetime, and lifetimes after that, I want to deal with any rust problems now when I still can, before it becomes a much more serious issue.
I agree with Supermil. If you just flood the threads with a good penetrating fluid, let it sit and then drain and apply oil, you should be able to kill any active rust and prevent further rusting.
The threads are LEFT hand.
If you have the means to secure the receiver ring without risking any damage, the rope trick could be used to remove the barrel.
Secure the receiver ring.
Wrap a loop of 1/2" nylon rope around the barrel.
Pass a pick handle, etc., through the loop.
Start winding the rope tight around the barrel.
The rope will grip the barrel like a strap wrench, and will allow torque to be applied without harming it.
You should be able to unscrew the barrel.
Remember - LEFT hand threads.
With a real receiver wrench and a barrel vise, removing 1905 barrels is very straight forward.
I have removed a number of 1905 barrels. All have required a bit of help - none were just hand tight after the lock screw was removed. Being in place for a century or more can do that.
Once removed, replacement and removal are easier the next time.
Generally speaking, removing barrels without proper gear or good reason is unwise, and can result in real harm being done.
PM
Originally Posted by AGB-1
