Quote Originally Posted by flydthecat View Post
How tight is a subjective matter. It should not move once installed at all. Normally, the screw will not bottom-out against the band-nut once snugged and should lock the hand guard in place. If you run the screw down to the point it bottoms and the band is still lose, I’d suggest you have an issue with the nose of the stock. The specification often used for the torque of the band-screw is “snug”.
A couple of years back I had difficulties with a CMPicon "High-wood" stock where the band wouldn't tighten enough and it would move forward during firing and the upper hand guard would fly off when firing. I contacted the CMP and explained the problem (and I had tried three different barrel bands to see if that was the issue and all three were the same) and was asked for a copy of the original receipt. I couldn't find it at the time so I couldn't send it back, which I'd explained in subsequent emails. He suggested gluing a small strip of leather at the front of the hand guard to take up some space as without that receipt the CMP couldn't exchange it. I've not done that yet as I've been trying other methods, but I think I'll be epoxying a thin strip of pigs leather to that little ledge soon to see how that works as it's far less difficult than trying to do so with glass bed. Trying to coat necessary parts with release agent and get it right the first time is far harder. Yes there might be a moisture problem as leather soaks up water, but it's worth a try as I've two carbines with the same issue. An alternative is to lay some glass bed on that ledge, let it set, and file it to shape. I'll try the leather first.

---------- Post added at 10:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:36 AM ----------

Quote Originally Posted by painter777 View Post
Hello Patrick,
According to Jim Mock-
" the bayonet lug provides a far more secure method of holding the barrel band to the barrel, stock and handguard without shifting and therefore provides far more reliable and better accuracy than the narrower barrel bands."

Found at the bottom of this link:
The U.S. Caliber .30 Carbines - Barrel Manufacturers

I have a IBM I shoot a lot that began to wander off center. I assumed the bore was getting worn as I had made no changes in ammo or the recoil plate set.
I found that the barrel band when tight had some side to side and teeter totter movement.
While tearing down to clean the Bayonet band slid very easily off the wood work and up the barrel. Normally I oil or lightly grease ahead of it on the barrel to limit scratches... but didn't need to this time. Later I took it off along with the front sight and compared it to a NOS Bayonet band. The 3 inner pads on the front end of my old Bayonet band showed a lot of wear, they looked like worn out brake pads. They stood proud on the NOS one. When I put the new one on I had to oil/grease the barrel again to limit scratches to the barrel.
After getting things back together it was accurate again. So just note those 3 inner pads that put finish wear on 3 spots on your barrel do in time wear down and don't get the bite on the barrel, stock and hand guard.

Maybe yours is doing the same thing?

On another I was getting a little forward and rearward movement of the barrel band (as much as the barrel band spring would allow).
The Band being as tight as I could get it also allowed movement between the stock and hand guard.

I used a thin strip of leather over the top lip of the hand guard (cut boot lace) as a shim.
The strip of leather snugged it up and has worked well. I've read about guys using that 2 sided tape the same way.

Guess we have to expect some wood crush after all these years... So we intervene as lightly as we can.

Good Luck, Keep in touch how things go for you.
Exactly my thinking.