Receiver and trigger housing stock clearance differences?

[jond41403]

Since they're both cheap, I would replace the recoil spring and hammer spring just to see if it made any difference. I think I remember reading you said it was a Midway purchase so it's hard telling how many miles are on those springs

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[Matt_X]

Since they're both cheap, I would replace the recoil spring and hammer spring just to see if it made any difference. I think I remember reading you said it was a Midway purchase so it's hard telling how many miles are on those springs

yea. I think it would be a good idea for me to have a USGI spare of each just to have on hand, along with an ejector and extractor spring.

The follow up on the possible light strikes was finding the firing pin key measurements seem in spec, but its movement was gritty. I disassembled and cleaned the bolt throughly again, until everything was free. All of the springs measure a bit short compared to new per drawings. Subjectively the hammer spring feels good on the install, at least as strong as the one on my SG. The op slide spring, measures correct length but the ID is large. I think its a replacement and may be made of slightly smaller diameter wire. I should look at the ends more closely for how they are finsihed.

For the failure to feed, I was able to narrow it down to the one magazine's dimensions. Maybe it got dropped or banged or something. I posted about that in someone elses thread but prob should put it heere too.

First I knew the FTFs were only from the Korean made mags that I had brought to the range.
I didn''t know if it was both or just one of them.
I had already examined the mag catch and observed a little bit of vertical play on the right and recalled the FTs were always on the right, at least sometimes the second to last round.

Second I checked the mag fit into the assembly with the stock off. Then loaded each of the magazines with 15 dummy rounds and cycled them. I did this with all four mags that I had brought to the range. I did this mostly to be sure I wasn't throwing the results by hand cycling at different rates or short cycling.

After getting a FTF from one of the korean made mags on the second to last round, I repeated the test with just 5 rounds in both. This time checked using different cartridges.
So this got me to another FTF from the 2nd to last round.

Then I measured the nib to top hieghts a couple differnt ways on all 4 mags. I also measured the lip openings, and dissassembled all four to compare followers and springs.
In my case I found the magazine had a shortest nib to top height (1.455"), and the narrowest lip opening of the four magazines. The straight section of the nib opening also bowed or bent downward. That could explain why the bolt usually caught the cartridge but then over rode it as it continued further.

To increase the hieght over 1.5" and increase the feed opening required a little bit of sheet metal shaping. After doing this, retested by manually cycling the dummy rounds again.
Ran perfectly!

[painter777]

I try to be easy on my mags when inserting, by always pushing in the mag catch all the way to the left.
It has to be easier on the 2 nubs than just slamming them home.
When bench shooting I try to not rest the carbine on the magazine to eliminate any rocking and rolling.

I often had to tweak the tube feed lips. My Daughter has a habit of getting 16rds in to a 15rd tube
That can't be good for them and surprisingly hard to strip the extra rd out at times.
I bent the lips on 2 when trying to snap the top cover on a NOS very tight pouch. Bent in enough you could see it right away.

I remember Frank D and I trying to figure out 2 impressions on a stock he was fixing.
When it hit me I realized they might be from a mag being tapped on the stock.
When he set the base of a mag on it, it was a perfect match to the base of the mag.
Guess it wasn't a shooter wearing a combat helmet setting the cartridges tight in the mag.

No matter the price, I just don't want any problems. Shooting time seems to be getting limited. I just try to be careful with the ones I use.

Since they're both cheap, I would replace the recoil spring and hammer spring

JD,
Cheap? Maybe if I'd of bought just a few, but I stocked up.
Remember my Post about 'What Spare Parts Should You Have'
I nearly went broke the past 2 winters buying up extra GI springs, plungers, extractors, bolt pawls, ejectors... etc, etc.
But now I have them. Wife will be offering them up when I die. I know I have more than I'll ever need / use, because I'm a Hoarder......
Much like you JD with your sagging floor ammo room !

Be Safe All,

[Matt_X]

I often had to tweak the tube feed lips. My Daughter has a habit of getting 16rds in to a 15rd tube

A couple nights ago I watched the relevant parts of How to Shoot the US Army Rifle (Garand) - Show her the rapid fire portion where the shooters count their shots out loud.

[Matt_X]

Brought the same two Korean U mags and two production mags to the range yesterday. All ran fine in this carbine. So the tweaking of the mags did the trick. No failures to fire either. Only change there was super clean the bolt. Maybe the cleaning helped or maybe just was unlucky last time with two bad primers.

Groups are getting better. Now I have to work on my offhand with this smoother and somewhat lighter trigger.

[Matt_X]

Since they're both cheap, I would replace the recoil spring and hammer spring just to see if it made any difference. I think I remember reading you said it was a Midway purchase so it's hard telling how many miles are on those springs

Quick update. I spoke too soon. That carbine failed to fire the same ammo - once during a CMP Garand match. Short version is that both 'duds' fired fine in my SG.
Changed bolts and firing pins but measuring the protrusion (as pictured in the 1947 tech manual) suggested that alone wasn't going to answer.


Installed a new hammer spring and took it to the range last week. Fired 65 rounds of the same ammo as before without a hiccup.

---------- Post added at 02:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:59 PM ----------

Now that its shooting consistantly, to use for competition the stock needs to better fit my hands than the Winchester does. I have an RSG stock on my SG and that fits my hands pretty nicely.

The Winchester just is too square in the forestock and too fat in the wrist for me.

Will anything but a Winchester and Marlin will be more to my liking?

Or are the RSG stocks that much different in feel than most of the others (such as Overton, Lumb etc) that ought to narrow my focus?

[painter777]

RSG stock on my SG and that fits my hands pretty nicely.

I'd have to measure a few to compare.
I do know that from the Many RSG hand guards I have that they seem to be the narrowest. At least the early Type I's are.

Agree the WRA and Marlin made stocks are beefy at the wrist. I've found that H&B stocks are pretty beefy also, along with Lumbs.
I've got my Grandson for another week+, might be a good project to measure some stock wrists while I have a few boxes pulled out.
If I do I'll get back to you.

Speaking of hand size, I used to follow a 3rd gen Wood Framer whose hands were so large you felt like you had a child's hand when shaking hands with him.
Back then I was taller, near 6'5" but now shrinking every year
He'd face palm you with his fingers nearly touching on the back of your head.

Be Safe,