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05-16-2022 02:17 PM
# ADS
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Originally Posted by
lboos
Remove the varnish, and cut that leather sling at the back, and put on the correct one, [as BAR said].
Louis, I understand what you and Jim (BAR) are saying, but I'm likely going to keep it much the way it looks right now. It's hard to explain, but Jon D pretty much "summed it up" in the post just below yours. I had (4) uncles that served in the US Navy during WWII. My Dad's (3) youngest brothers pictured below, served in the Pacific Theater and (2) were barely out of HS at the time.
Also, I was a friend of Jim Flavin's and was fortunate enough to meet him in person and to thank him for his service. He served in the Navy with "Assault Craft Unit 1" during the Vietnam War and faithfully attended the annual meetings with his group for as long as his health allowed.
I don't think the sling on this Carbine is just the "run of the mill" variety - but instead think it's likely been with the gun for possibly 50-60 years. I'll attach some pictures of the sling, too. If I remove it, I'll probably drill out a rivet rather than taking a knife to it.
- Bob
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You could always drill the center out of the rivet and pop it out. Then you could work the leather sling end around the oiler and remove it. A brass rivet isn't that hard to replace.
When they tell you to behave, they always forget to specify whether to behave well or badly!

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Originally Posted by
jimb16
A brass rivet isn't that hard to replace.
I learned how to do those from my Dad repairing picking bags on the farm where he worked when I was growing up. Probably have to buy a box of 100! One idea I have too, is to use one of those short screws with a large flat head and similar nut, like were used to hold 3 hole notebook folders together years ago. Most had brads that you bent over, but some had those screws that you assembled by turning with your thumb nail. I probably have one somewhere if I would just go look!
- Bob
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Legacy Member
Thanks for the photos. The finish appears to be original and very well preserved. The sand blast mark on the receiver is strong and the shadow at the point of barrel/receiver joint is also there . I have a 5.4 (8/44) that is almost sure to be original that the finish isn't as good as that one. I think that Inland started to speed up and allow the quality to slip toward the end. They did request and were allowed to use barrels that were formerly rejects but would work fine according to the rules. My barrel looks like a 45 barrel, shallow rifling and not from being shot. That is a really nice unit you have there. Thanks
D
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Charlie: I've had my share of flatheads many of them and Henry built a fine car, but the Chevrolet was a lot better in my book. The Ford would bust axles like popcorn always the same thing, $hitty crystalized steel. If I had a thousand bucks for every cluster gear I replaced on a Ford, I'd be a rich man. The Ford transmission was way too long and the gearshafts would flex because of it, once they spread enough, pow another cluster gear. The Chevy was the size of a Harley 74 but bullet proof. Better steel, shorter length. I had a 36 Ford flatbed truck. It had one of those cool Stewart Warmer "South Wind" heaters in the cab, the one that took a bit of gas from the Stromberg 97 and ran hot as hell. It was from Montana and had a strip of leather replacing one of the inserts on the crankshaft. Was in there working fine for decades. Ford did use inserts instead of Babbited bearings probably because they were cheaper.
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I see a 125 9. It's definitely a five instead of a six, I can see the straight back of the five. The last letter is fuzzy it could either be a one a three or a nine in my opinion.hth
"good night Chesty, Wherever You Are"
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