Should I Have Passed On This Inland?

[USGI]

Thanks! Yep, the number offset to the right is blurred and looks kind of wide. I've still got the action out of the stock - will try getting another picture outdoors. - Bob

[DaveHH]

"I can tell that Dave has "been there & done that" with the Fords! Changing axles and transmissions on pre-49's isn't much fun - I think I broke and repaired 6-7 transmissions and a couple of axles. I do remember beating a couple of Chevy V8's, though."

With the non-banjo rear ends (49-51) the trick was to take a broom stick and put a wire loop on the end. Reach inside and drop the loop around the broken part and pull that end piece out. I used to remove about half of the cross member bolts because I broke transmissions so often. They would never break when you were abusing them, it would go "Tink" when you were on a date or something. The engines were great.

[painter777]

The Hand Guard looks every bit like a WRA Bull Nose to me. The Height of the Frt profile, The Side of Frt Profile, The Circular milling near the notch with inner milling circle over top of the outer circle.
The numbers in the stock channel look like 126 3 to me..... Maybe 126th day of 1943 ? Or May 6 1943 ?

3-6-43 WB show RMC sending 3,000 Hammers to Inland.
I always wonder about these 'Integrated parts'.
Did RMC send Hammers made for them (?) or Hammers they had 'Integrated' from another Prime or Sub (?)
That make any sense?

[USGI]

With the non-banjo rear ends (49-51) the trick was to take a broom stick and put a wire loop on the end. Reach inside and drop the loop around the broken part and pull that end piece out. I used to remove about half of the cross member bolts because I broke transmissions so often. They would never break when you were abusing them, it would go "Tink" when you were on a date or something. The engines were great.

My Dad bought a new '51 Custom 2DR when I was about 6 years old. By the time the (3) of us boys were teenagers we had another (4 ) '50 and'51 "shoebox" Fords surrounding the house. Yep, a cousin who worked at the wrecking yard showed me that trick with the axles! The 51's had a stronger transmission but could still be broken! - Bob

[USGI]

The numbers in the stock channel look like 126 3 to me..... Maybe 126th day of 1943 ? Or May 6 1943 ?

I thought it could be 126 3 and Jon saw a 5 instead of a 2. Either way, that date would be about right with my 4-43 barrel, I think. I have other pictures to add, but need to head for town right away, so will attach them later. That's a good question on the parts transfers! In the back of my safe, I found another Inland I bought 6 years ago and it has an SI sight! Will attach a picture later this evening!

EDIT STARTS HERE

I tried taking more pics of the stock's date code outdoors for Jon D, but couldn't come up with anything better than I had - it's just too faint! The 1st picture below was taken outdoors and the last number does look like a 3. The second picture is from a 426K Inland auction on GB (2016) with a 6-43 barrel. That would figure out to mid May 1943 - also seems about right.



If I'd taken the time to look closer at that 755K Inland (from the back of the safe) when I brought it home, I would've already had my answer regarding the missing I on 408K's sight. It's clear that the 755K has the I to the left of the ridge and the marking is "upside down" - viewed with the barrel up. The date on the barrel is 7-43, so this one appears out of the s/n range according to the CCC data on the use of the SI sights. The second picture shows (2) NI sights with the marking along the side of the blade - seems like the SI's could have been stamped there if they had wanted to - a tighter space for the stamp, though. - Bob

[jond41403]

I promise you guys it's a 5! It says 125 3, the five is very elaborate and the bottom of it curves up almost touching the bottom of the straight back of the five. I wish I knew how to take a picture and draw on it to show you guys what I'm seeing. Charlie's right about the last digit being 3. I must have a really good screen because I can see the five clearly when I zoom in

[jond41403]

I also believe the old auction picture reads 158 3 because I can see the same characteristic dip in the top of the five as I see in Bob's picture. Where it's an elaborate number 5, the top of the five dips down like a smile on a smiley face, then has a straight back, then circles out and curls back up almost touching the straight back of the five but not quite, there is a tiny space there with no ink which is also present in both pictures of Bob's and the auction. Since the numbers are so elaborate, I would imagine a number six would also be very curved at the top if that makes sense.hth. but Bob's stock definitely has a number five, I would literally bet my house on it haha!That's how sure I am. I just want Bob to record the correct numbers for his records

[USGI]

Jon - you've almost got me convinced, but I'm thinking the heights of the numbers in that first group of (3) would've all been about the same. For example, a 5 would be about as tall as the 2 or 8 shown next to it - I can see a faint curvature on my 6's that extends to the same height as the other numbers.


Is your house paid for, and can you get a picture of it? Just Kidding !!!!!

Those numbers are so faint it's a wonder they can still be seen at all - I'm happy they're there, even if I can't read 'em! Being stamped directly over the milling lines doesn't help any either. - Bob

[USGI]

I believe these were made by Simpro Mfg. Co. Who also made sights for IBM and Underwood.... Maybe NPM also, these include Type I and Type II when applicable.

Charlie, The Inland "SI" (sans serif) front sights were made by R.D. Sedgley, Inc. - I found this in WarBaby pages 335 and 1145. - Bob

[USGI]

My goal was to get the sling and oiler removed and still have the sling capable of being reinstalled. To do that, I needed to drill out the rivet and replace it with a post (barrel) screw. The rivet turned out to be hollow steel about 1/8" in diameter with brass caps. When I started drilling, the cap came off - then it got really tough to get the rest of the rivet out without ruining the leather.

The smallest post screw I could find at HD was 3/16" x 1/4" so knew I would have to shorten both pieces to get the length down enough to tighten against the leather. Even though the leather was nearly 1/8" thick just a few inches from the riveted loop, I found that I needed to shorten the post to a length of about .170" to match the leather at the loop. The (double) thickness of the leather in the area where it comes in contact with the oiler when installed on the gun, is about .235" - that's why the loop at the end of the sling has to be taken apart to remove the oiler. I used a 3/16" hollow punch to increase the size of the original rivet holes.

The oiler didn't look like it had been out or had the cap off in a long time - an original leather washer was still in there! I'll probably put on a GI sling, but at least I was able to save the "Veteran" one!

I'll attach a few pictures. - Bob