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No32 clicker plates
Does anyone have some spare clicker plates they might be persuaded to part with? I have bought two MK2 scopes which have been scavenged for parts (the clicker plates) but are otherwise reasonable restoration prospects. They need new pointers and horizontal wires but I am able to make these up myself. I'm not so keen to embark on making new clicker plates on the milling machine but might be persuaded to ask a machine shop to cut these on a CNC machine. My own MK2 William Watson scope has 84 point clickers and they are of 25.2mm outside diameter (maybe the blank was an inch but was deburred/ground after cutting?) What would other like minded individuals think about ordering up some new clicker plates?
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11-23-2022 05:23 AM
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Perhaps you could order a few sets from RSM and cut the recess in the top surface required for Mk.I and II fittings? Trouble is they are or should be, hardened after machining and you'd need to anneal them and then re-harden after the mods.
Twenty five or so years ago I had some 1 MOA plates made up by a very talented self-taught machinist for the purpose of making Mk.I scopes more user-friendly, but have only one set left kept as a sample.
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I’ve seen the RSM ones and they’re not really good enough to work with, if I was going to go to the bother of annealing then you’re not far off starting from scratch. A sliding head lathe would make short work of them and could work with silver steel which will home harden nicely. I have a dividing head and could do it myself but that sort of work really hurts my back leading over the mill table.
I
Originally Posted by
Surpmil
Perhaps you could order a few sets from RSM and cut the recess in the top surface required for Mk.I and II fittings? Trouble is they are or should be, hardened after machining and you'd need to anneal them and then re-harden after the mods.
Twenty five or so years ago I had some 1 MOA plates made up by a very talented self-taught machinist for the purpose of making Mk.I scopes more user-friendly, but have only one set left kept as a sample.
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Thank You to Musgrave For This Useful Post:
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Back in the day I had a really talented machinist who made some clicker plates for Mk3 scopes for me. Peter may recall him - he was a real eccentric, but there was no doubting his skill. In fact, he made me about a dozen sets of complete Mk3 Range & Deflection drum assemblies.........knurled thumb knob, index plates, centre spindles, sliding R&D scales, even the phosphor bronze springs.........the lot. Unfortunately I have gradually used up most of these, save for a few stashed for rebuilds of incomplete Mk3 scopes that I have salted away. Whilst I would not need many, if the price was acceptable & they were accurately made, I'd potentially be interested in a few sets for Mk2 scopes, as they'd also be usable on Mk1's (they'd effectively convert a Mk1 scope into a Canadian
pattern Mk1A!!).
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Drop me a pm...
cheers,
Warren
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As Surpmil says above, while there are about 6 versions of the TOP part of the clicker, varying from 2 MOA, 50 yard Mk1 type to te full radius Mk3 1 MoA versions, there are 4 variations of the Mk4 version......., probably plus some! Full toothed radius, partially radiussed and so on..... Then there's the raised or lower centre..... See what I mean.
We had drawers full of Mk1 types at one time - and I think that I still have a zillion sets somewhere that should be readily convertible. Getting a set made ........ The material has to be exact. Too hard and it will destroy the clicker plunger within weeks. Too soft and the hard plunger will destroy the nice new clicker plate.
Be advised that while the parts list identified the Mk1 range and deflection drum component parts. It was a list of PARTS and not a list of AVAILABLE parts. I NEVER saw Mk1 (or 2 come to that.....) drum parts separately - except the screws and lock nuts of course
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Thank You to Peter Laidler For This Useful Post:
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Over the years I have seen a number of Mk. 3 clicker plates destroyed by a seized detent plunger.
I wonder how long the owner just horsed the drum around to do that much damage.
I kept a few buggered gear wheels (somewhere) and will see if I can find them and show you what can and is done to a 32 scope !!!
Peter: you were going to show Roger and I a quick and dirty method to release a seized Mk. 3 plunger that has been hammered down to the bottom of the hole.
I have a Loctite product called FREEZE and RELEASE that will do the job but the old masters must have used something else as this a fairly recent product.
cheers,
Warren
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When I am well again and back to full strength I will say how we used to do it. But be prepared..... A bit over zealous and it is easy to go past the point of redemption. Simple if you can just write the whole CES off or do some paperwork alterations.
Kind regards.
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PM
