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  1. #1
    Contributing Member ssgross's Avatar
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    a pipe dream

    I'm just spitballing here, bear with me.
    I've had it on my wish list for a long time now to build a flintlock from scratch. Been doing homework for years, read "Building the American long rifle" cover to cover several times, along with multiple other similar books. I've practiced the skills therein fitting up or inletting many parts on the many milsurps I've restored. I'm ready, and my kids won't be around forever to do it with me, or at least watch me as they tend to do when the work gets too involved

    My hang up is that all the kits/models available of very ornate. All the demand seems to be for a "golden age" rich man's showpiece. I want none of that, so I'll have to carefully select each piece to do it. I live just up the road from the NRA museum, and been fortunate enough to inspect some arms from the revolutionary period. None of them are like what you see being sold now. Everything is simple. Many parts still have file marks as the extra hours to polish down was not paid for.

    I don't need it to be overly "correct" either. I need a simple lock and furniture cast from pot metal. Straight grain, full length walnut stock. I'll go with a rifled barrel (I know almost all of the average Joe's arms of this period were smoothbore muskets), and I'll want a left-handed lock - knowing how incorrect this is too. double-set trigger too. This should all make it unique and very personal, without any gilding, fancy carved inlays, etc.
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    Contributing Member StratA's Avatar
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    As an aside, I was fortunate to be working in your neighborhood last June and had the opportunity (and rare bit of free time) to visit the NRA museum on a quiet Sunday.
    What a tremendous collection and absolutely professional and welcoming staff.
    Nothing many on here don't already know, however.

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    Legacy Member oldfoneguy's Avatar
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    Find a barrel and stock then secure a lock, buttplate, trigger and guard assembly even a patch box if you want one from Grandpa's parts, CFN or S&S. They can either be original antique or reproduction parts depending on how much you want to spend. If you must buy a kit then accessorize it with the non fancy parts. CFN Parts go as far back as the model 1842 percussion musket. S&S and Grandpa's both go back to the 1795 Springfield. There's bound to be some cool stuff to be found on these sites.

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    Contributing Member ssgross's Avatar
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    you're spot on with what I have been thinking foneguy. Kits are nice because everything is guaranteed to work together. A semi-inlet is nice too because the hard part of laying out the main profile, leveling, etc. is already done. Then again it's probably all for the better that the easier ways of starting this thing don't fit exactly what I'm looking for - I should get on with doing a stock from scratch too.

    Wayne Dunlap of Dunlap Woodcrafts just up the road in Chantilly spends most of his retirement on the road looking for wood for rifle stocks whilst his employees turn out custom furniture - coffee tables and what not - to pay the bills. I'm confident I can find exactly what I want at a fair price there so I don't need to buy online unseen. As for barrels. I'm thinking long 45cal, heavier type, but swamped profile for the benefit of added balance.

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    Advisory Panel Surpmil's Avatar
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    A Ferguson rifle would be my project of choice. With the CAD and CNC capabilities available today it shouldn't be too hard. Just be sure to put the necessary taper on the breech plug.
    “There are invisible rulers who control the destinies of millions. It is not generally realized to what extent the words and actions of our most influential public men are dictated by shrewd persons operating behind the scenes.”

    Edward Bernays, 1928

    Much changes, much remains the same.

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    Advisory Panel tiriaq's Avatar
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    There were a lot of really plain, utilitarian rifles made. Barn rifles. Southern mountain rifles. Some didn't even have buttplates. No reason not to make such a rifle. There were left hand locks, as well. Just get the basic parts, and stock it up so that it suits you.

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    Contributing Member Doco overboard's Avatar
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    Building a muzzle loading rifle is a rewarding experience for those who have not done it.
    After parts selection, laying out the rifle takes careful thought but the work is accomplished by mostly simple application of tools.

    After laying out the lock, I think the most difficult part is drilling the ram rod hole and then fitting the lower ram rod pipe.
    The hole for the ramrod doesn't always have to be drilled, it can be chiseled out but the fitting of the lower pipe requires working on two planes so to speak.

    First, (plane) the tab to the lower thimble need to carefully inlet to just under the barrel so it can be pinned once its centered up and then the tang of the pipe (exterior-second plane) be kept straight by the tube section parallel to the bottom barrel flat just the right amount so the the for-end remains graceful and without excess weight and or bulk. The thimbles are larger in diameter than the ram rod.

    Of course like any other foray the selection of non intricate and rudimentary furniture would be a prudent course of action for the first go round.
    I think with hand stocked rifles, less is more until some of the methods and tools are utilized so the workman can accomplish a degree of success and then working finality.

    Finally, the tools/methods which are not very hard to reproduce in a modest workshop at the very least, and the information for how to use and apply them are available as long as you dont get in a rush and have plenty of time to enjoy what your doing.

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    Legacy Member jamie5070's Avatar
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    Back in the early 90s, that is what I did. Built a rifle combining several styles. A real mutt. But I did it and it goes bang. Ruined one stock while inletting the barrel. I used a tulle fussil stock with a straight tapered round barrel with brass charlieville type furniture. .54 cal rifled barrel. If you can, I would recommend the Hershal House videos, if still available. Mine is a vhs tape, lol

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    Contributing Member ssgross's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamie5070 View Post
    But I did it
    Now isn't this always the most valuable part!

  13. #10
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    A friend of mine now gone...used to make Kentucky rifles and tomahawks and period knives. Used to make his own buckskins too, I always wanted to buy one of his expensive tomahawks but too much money at the time. Now he's gone and now I have more cash...too little too late. There was a Pennsylvania rifle left that was being priced high so it went to a dealer, is still around though. BP and flint was never my thing, couldn't even warm up to cap and ball.
    Regards, Jim

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