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M1917 Woes and Advice
Last edited by Nugilum; 05-30-2009 at 08:01 PM.
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05-30-2009 07:56 PM
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My understanding that the "GO", "NO GO" guages cannot be used on the M1917 since they will always show excessive headspace. Hatcher's Notebook addressed this problem and Julian Hatcher recommended a more correct procedure for guaging headspace.
Maybe someone on this forum has gunsmithing skills for the M1917 and can talk you through the procedure.
BEAR
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Oh I hope that's true.
I've been learning little tid-bits here and there. It appears that gunsmiths don't know much about M1917s anymore.
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M1917's difficult to headspace as the bolt has huge locking power. Did the gunsmith completely strip the bolt? Cocking assembly and extractor removed? Did he VERY gently lower the bolt on the GO gauge? Also, did he gently lower the bolt on the NO-GO gauge? Most 'smiths do not work on M1917's and do not know anything about the M1917. If the rifle shoots OK and primers do not back out of the fired case, do not worry about a non-problem.
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Advisory Panel
before you go out and shoot,
look down the bore, if its dark, DONT SHOOT IT OUT!!, clean or replace the barrel first.
if the bore is ok, then test fire, and look at the case.
if it looks good, then shoot some more and enjoy..
My GI gauge, works better on 17,s then the ones on the market today..
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I already gave the barrel a good scrubbing. When I finish getting the dents out of the stock, I'll debate if I should risk shooting it or not.
Who's got experience changing out these barrels?
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If the bore is still dark after your first cleaning, try cleaning with hot soapy water. If the rifle shot blanks then it may have black powder residue in it and regular cleaning solvents won't get it all out.
I have never been really concerned about head space in my '17s (maybe i'm being stupid). I gave them all a thorough cleaning and inspection and then a few shots to check the brass for any signs of problems.
For smithy work, "Chuck in denver" he posts on these forums has a glowing reputation. He would be my choice if I couldn't find a local competent smith.
You will find that barrels for the '17 are very hard to find and pricy.
john
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What does the bore look like? Did you check at CMP
for muzzle wear with one of CMP's gauges? Most of the VFW returns are in poor condition. Nice wallhangers, but poor shooters.
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It seems the laws of Physics have expired some how.A go gauge is used to cut a minimum depth chamber.The bolt should close on it.The no go is to tell a gunsmith when to stop before he cuts too deep.If your bolt closes on a no go then it has to close on a go since its shorter.On a rifle that has had the same barrel for 90 years the smith should check it with a field gauge.Just because the no go had the bolt close doesnt mean its at the safe maximum.The field is the final standard,and its a bit larger than the no go.Buy one from Midway for about 20 bucks,strip the bolt,and try,and close it with one finger.If it drops right down you are maxed out.If you feel resistance as it nears closing thats good.If it does close then order several bolt bodies from Gun Parts Corp,and try them to see if a different bolt will correct the problem.If it does send back the ones you didnt need.Lastly if you reload you can fire new ammo in it,and from then on neck size only.This brass is now head spaced to that chamber.Good luck getting it clean.I tried on one,and ended up rebarreling.Gun Parts Corp may yet sell after market replacement barrels.If it comes to that let us know,and one of us will tell you about making the relief cut in front of the receiver to remove a Eddystone barrel with out cracking the receiver.Good luck and dont give up.
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Save yourself Midway's ripoff price for shipping and purchase a Forster Gauge on Auction Arms at http://www.auctionarms.com/search/di...temnum=9154091
I kick myself for purchasing a $21 gauge from them and paying $17 in shipping