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Thanks MJ1. Much appreciated. This thread would seem an opportune place to mention that I will not be getting any further batches done when the present lot have all sold. I've been doing them for thirty years now & I'm more than happy for someone else to take over the reins if they wish to! At present I have about twenty left from the batch of 100, so they're still available, but if sales continue as per usual they won't be for too much longer.....
ATB.
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07-09-2020 06:24 AM
# ADS
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I will send you a "PM" Roger
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I just wanted to make a comment and a warning here regarding the repro scopes being tight in the mounts.
DO NOT USE THE CAP SCREWS TO FORCE THE SCOPE INTO THE MOUNT. Tapered screws transmit tremendous force on the scope seating it into the mount cradles and will actually break the turret block loose from the tube.
I have repaired several and it is not a nice job. To take the repro scopes apart normally takes special tools which l have made, but still not a nice job and no parts other than the small lot l have from scrapped scopes.
Be careful mounting the repro scope in the repro mounts and if you have to remove the aligning stud on the scope.
If you need more info or help, feel free to PM me if you need help and l will do what l can for you.
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No32 Mk3 teardown and critique
OK I hope no-one minds but I thought I would do a teardown on the Red Star Mountain No32 Mk3 reproduction scope.
A brief explanation: Six months ago I bought one for my No4 Mk1 to use on the range in competition. I got the full package that includes the repro mounts and the drill and tap.
I have a 1942 Savage No4 that was picked up by a friend in North Queensland in the 1970s while he and his girlfriend were sailing 'across the top' of Australia.
Their trip required regular forays into the rivers to collect fresh water.
Now for those of you who don't know, Australia's biggest and bitiest predator lives in the rivers of the Top End.
The Salt Water Croc is an animal to be respected and only observed from a long distance or behind a substantial fence.
There's nothing they like more than the soft flesh of an unwary tourist.
So, said friend felt the need for some insurance; not being a shooter he bought the rifle that all the croc hunters at the time swore by. The venerable 303. $40au.
He and GF and another couple sailed away feeling safer by .303 of an inch.
They stopped at a deserted island, anchored in the bay and he set off to test his new purchase with some of the 174 FMJ 1942 CDC rounds that came with the rifle.
And lo! There was a fridge washed up on the beach. He duly took aim and squeezed of 1 round, just one!
Big bang! The recoil came as a very unpleasant surprise.
The rifle, uncleaned was wrapped up in a blanket where it remained.
One day 50 years later as we inspected his new shed, he asked if I would come and shoot the possum that was constantly getting into his shed and running riot.
I said "NO, I don't shoot possums".
And besides, "haven't you got a rifle?"
He said "yes but it's a 303"
2 cartons of beer later it was mine, ALL MINE Bwa Ha Ha Ha!
Where was I?
Oh yes, it was in very good nick, so I cleaned it and found that it had centre bedding, an Australian heavy barrel from Lithgow, and Singer sights.
I won’t go into the mounting except to say I followed the instructions of Peter Laidlaw to the letter.
It now has a cheek rest mounted. (I got it off FleaBay from a bloke in England). Very nice!
The scope would not hold zero. So, I complained and much to my surprise they sent me another scope.
This looked the same, was marked the same, but was NOT the same! It had less magnification and a finer stadia. Also, the deflection movement described an arc. What to do?
I decided to take it to work with me (on an oil rig over Christmas) and pull it down and find the issues and see if my original scope is fixable.
I have done that and thought that you guys might like to see what I found.
Last edited by Hybridfiat; 01-06-2024 at 09:50 PM.
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Something I have learned
If the focus is out slightly and loosening the objective end improves it, don't be tempted to alter the focus at this end.
It will have the effect of introducing parallax errors into the scope.
Briefly it means that if moving the objective lens assembly forward a poofteenth makes image clear, it will change the parallax.
That means, looking through the scope at a target, the act of moving your head left or right up or down, will have the effect of shifting the crosshair on the target.
Not a good thing if you want a consistent point of impact.
So focus is done from the other end. Under the little curved plate at the ocular end is a serrated block that holds the erector assembly in place.
The procedure to change this has been covered elsewhere.
https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=29604
I just want to let people know that moving the objective even a tiny amount will cause changes in parallax.
Conversely, it could be that to fix a parallax issue, altering the objective end will work, but remember the Golden Rule: "if it ain't broken don't fiddle with it".
Last edited by Hybridfiat; 01-06-2024 at 09:20 PM.
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