No1 MkIII FINISHES

[Randy A]

I’ve been trying to find what original finishes were applied to (in my case an Ishapore 2A1) the No1 MkIII. I know that a number of people are going to mention the paint. I am almost certain that paint was not an original application. I have a fair condition 2A1 and various other parts from other rifles. All have what I suspect is manganese parkerizing under the paint? But I suspect the bolts were blued? I also have a like new rear sight assembly for a 2A/2A1 that is all blued, so I’m a bit confused. Can anyone list what parts were blued and what was parked and what kind of parking? I’d like to get going on this thing.
Thanks

[Claven2]

The original finish on the 2A and 2A1 barreled actions appears to have been parkerizing with suncorite applied over it. Even below the woodline. small parts may have other finishes from the factory.

[Surpmil]

Practices may well have changed during the lifecycle of the weapon. Parts, especially if made by outside contractors, may have had whatever finish they were capable of applying rather than the service standard.

Don't recall ever hearing that India or Pakistan or Bangladesh used Suncorite. Those who have cleaned off whatever was swabbed onto ex-Indian rifles can comment better I'm sure, but probably some locally produced paint.

[Brian Dick]

Surpmil is correct. I think the paint used by India on small arms was far inferior to Suncorite 259. I've refinished a few and it simply comes off too easily. The real phosphate and baked finish is tough as nails. It might scratch or chip but just try getting it off with solvent. Even the meths/denatured alcohol solvent used in its application won't touch it after it's been baked.

[Surpmil]

Randy A, any good quality enamel applied over good quality parkerizing with substantial and even crystalline deposits will bond very well. The parkerizing has to be 100% free of all dirt and oils/greases of course.

One way to tell if you have good crystalline formation is if they sparkle like the proverbial thousand points of light when the piece is held up in direct sunlight.

If there are no contaminants like dirt or oils filling the microscopic spaces between the crystals the paint will fill that space when applied. Get the piece hot enough to drive out the moisture first as it also takes up space the paint would otherwise occupy.

That's my experience and opinion anyway, for what it's worth.

[bigduke6]

I stripped off the paint on a 2/A I had many years ago, the parkerising underneath was really good, so left it that way, it was one of many rifles that went to the auction a few years ago, nearly every thread was butchered or none existing which soon become apparent when it was stripped. The previous owner never had any luck with it on the range, I never put standard ammo through it, but did use my downloaded ammo, using a round nose M1 carbine bullet, it was excellent......

My theory on Indian paint was the good stuff was used on personal stuff at home , gates, pushbike etc and was replaced with cheap stuff.

[Randy A]

Thanks, I finally got all the parts rounded up. I found the Enfield Guru and after a nice visit will be getting all the metal off to him. This thing looked like it had been stored under the perch in a chicken coop. Wish I’d taken pics before I tanked it.

---------- Post added at 09:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:14 PM ----------

On another note, I guess Suncorite was applied. I can’t find any though, I’ve looked everywhere I can think of.

[5thBatt]

What about Hammerite or POR 15 as a substitute?

[Randy A]

I don’t have much nice to say about POR15, had to remove the remnants of that stuff from a number of peoples failed attempts. Not familiar with the other.

[5thBatt]

POR15 is a good product, if you fail in the attempt it was a failed attempt before you even applied the product which is also the general rule with any application