Enfield headspace issue?

[tiriaq]

I recall a setup which had an electrically rotated turntable, the cases would pass through a flame, and then be tipped into water. Exposure to heat was uniform.

[Rick]

I test mine with a .074" gauge.

as for reloading, I don't really want to trry to keep all the different rifles brass seperated so I'm still full lenght sizing, up to 3 reolads now with no problems, but I am using mostly IVI brass.

I'm working on an ideal to case anneal the necks, but still in the early stages, it will be automatic and be able to handle volume.

Handloader magazine a few years back had a review of a setup for doing automatic annealing.

[happydude]

In comparing my brass to other Enfield fired brass, there's no problem. Now I just have to figure out how to get my Sierra 125's into the case mouth. I've been told it might be a chamfering issue. The Hornady boat-tailed 174's load fine because of the boat-tail, but the 125's are a regular flat-bottomed design and won't rest inside the case mouth. And here I thought loading for a rifle would be easier than for my .45.

[tiriaq]

If chamfering doesn't work, could you not bell the neck slightly as you would do for some pistol loads?

[Rick]

In comparing my brass to other Enfield fired brass, there's no problem. Now I just have to figure out how to get my Sierra 125's into the case mouth. I've been told it might be a chamfering issue. The Hornady boat-tailed 174's load fine because of the boat-tail, but the 125's are a regular flat-bottomed design and won't rest inside the case mouth. And here I thought loading for a rifle would be easier than for my .45.

Several possible fixes.

First, see if chamfering the case mouth makes a difference. The fact they don't sit prettily upright in the mouth as you run them into the seating die doesn't necessarily mean anything - support the bullet with your fingers until it has entered the die.

If that doesn't work for you... Next, you can try slightly belling the case mouth - and I mean slightly. A .45 bullet inserted nose first and a little tap on the bullet base should do it.

Finally, the elegant solution - use a Lyman "M" die. Finish with a Lee Factory Crimp die if you don't like the neck tension afterwards (another Lee product I think a lot of).

[happydude]

A light chamfer and holding the bullet as it rides into the seating die did the trick just fine. I'm used to pistol bullets sitting there contently as they go for their ride up, not so with rifles.

[Badger]

Parashooter published a good article in the Technical Articles for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders(click here)

Headspace 101 for .303's (click here)

Regards,
Badger

[sdh1911]

If you'd like to measure the actual headspace gap you can punch out a series of feeler guages from 0.002" to 0.010" and place them on the back of a virgin cases using white grease and proceed to step them up until you find resistance on the closing motion and that will be the space in question. This hould be done while the gun is in a stripped down condition, i.e. no trigger or anything else that would interfere with the feel. This can be done with most firearms for a cheap and dirty way to check for excessive space, its a lot cheaper than buying a gauge every time you check H/S. Its also done by many guys building fat barrel guns with very tight chamber. HTH-SDH

[tiriaq]

Measure the rim of the .303 case, add the thickness of the shims, and you will know the gap between the barrel face and the bolt face.

[NC_Xplorer]

Hello everyone,
I shot my No.4 in a CMP vintage rifle match on Saturday and I was using new reloads that I had worked up using new brass. I experienced multiple cases with visible splits about .125 to .250 above the rim and at least 3 complete head separations. My Enfield is fitted with a #3 bolt head. From my research on this forum I have concluded that I have excessive headspace issues. Will this require a gunsmith to fix or is there another solution? I know from reading a copy of a manual that was posted here that I have the largest bolt head already. I don't think switching to a lower numbered bolt head will fix this. Has anyone else had a similar problem like this?