BLO or oiled wood

[Edward Horton]

There is nothing inaccurate about what I have said about bolt thrust Parashooter, when you recommended lubing cases in your “Headspace 101” YOU did NOT list any loads and at what pressures were safe to shoot lubed cases. (Do you even know what pressure is safe?) YOU also removed it from your Headspace 101 and added the coiled nylon around the rim trick in lieu of oiled ammunition.

You can’t have it both ways Parashooter you have absolutely nothing to back up your claims that it is a safe practice or that it is approved by any current firearms manufacture or reloading manual.

You did NOT warn anyone to NEVER shoot fully loaded factory, military or reloaded ammunition in ANY firearm with a lubed or oil chamber.

In “Cases and Enfields and lube - Oh my!” YOU did NOT tell anyone the reason no additional bolt thrust was delivered to the bolt face was because the cases were head spacing on the shoulder and the rear of the case was in firm contact with the bolt face.

We BOTH have neglected the fact that NO ONE complains about bolt thrust on fire formed cases that are neck sized only and the rear of the case is also touching the bolt face.

The warnings in the manuals are real and I damaged a rifle by lubing cases and I no longer do it, and I was told NOT to do it by Remington Arms Company.

Below is a protective cup it represents the bolt face of a rifle with a dry and oil free chamber.



Below is a Golf club driver, it represents bolt thrust and an oily chamber.



Now how many of you people are going to let me swing the driver as hard as I can and hit you in the groin, this represents shooting fully loaded ammunition in an oily chamber and excessive bolt thrust.

Again one more time, excessive bolt thrust from an oiled or greasy chamber.



And bolt thrust from a clean dry chamber.



NO one has the right to tell you to ignore safety warnings about oil in the chamber, just like no one should convince you to take a shot to the groin just for the fun of it. If you shoot oiled ammunition in any firearm YOU are half nuts.

[villiers]

"If you sail too far, you'll fall off the edge of the Earth."

This is, of course true! It happened to Eric the Red, Christopher Columbus and the Pilgrim Fathers. I don´t see why Enfields should be made to suffer the same fate. Please send `em all home where they´ll be appreciated.

[smle-man]

Depending on the date of your 03-A3 RLO or raw linseed oil or Tung oil could have been applied when it was made, the U.S. started using Tung oil in 1943.

There is only one place I know of that sells real pure Tung oil and that is at this link......Environmentally Friendly Paint - Real Milk Paint ® everything else on the market presently in nothing more than a wiping varnish no matter what the label tells you (read the msds sheet on each product)

A conservator in a museum to clean an antique firearm stock would use a 50/50 mix of raw linseed oil and turpentine, a soft cotton cloth and a heat lamp to help sweat any impurities to the surface. The metal parts of the gun would be cleaned with pure raw olive oil and a soft cloth and possibly a soft bristled tooth brush to lightly scrub some areas.

At the far end of the Bubba extreme spectrum some people would put the stock in the dish washer.

What lies in the middle is to determine what type of paint is on your stock and how badly you want to remove it. At repair level shops and at overhaul your stock if needed would be scraped or sanded as needed to return it to serviceable condition.

NOTE: Your rifle would not pass military inspection at any level with paint on it and something would have been done to it to remove the paint. Scraping seals the pores and surface of the wood and sanding opens the pores of the wood (What type surface do you need to match?)

Edward

It appears to be an unissued DCM rifle with a dry stock that had whatever was the oil treatment at the time it was assembled. Since then it has leaned in the corner of a room probably for years. Hopefully the stock hasn't warped over all this time. I'm assuming the paint is a standard room latex paint since it is a white splatter as if a room was being painted and the rifle wasn't moved out of the way.

[Edward Horton]

If your stock is very dry and has no build up of oil finish “on top of the wood” and the paint is “in” the grain you may have to strip the entire stock to remove the paint.

NOTE: I would try all other measures before stripping the stock down completely, stripping in this manor requires applying a water or alcohol base stain to restore the original color and patina.

Try these ideas

How can I Remove Latex Paint?

Remove Paint Splatters | Myperfectcolor.com

I bought this dresser below at a yard sale for $25.00 and it had white latex paint and a non water base red paint splatter on it, I used 0000 steel wool wetted with Minwax Antique oil finish to “scrub” the paint off. (WARNING: Minwax Antique oil finish is a wiping varnish it is less than 50% linseed oil)

If your paint is “in” the grain the above method will not work as the steel wool will not get into the grain of the wood. Try real raw linseed oil available at craft stores for oil painting it is very pure refined oil and you will not find a better grade of linseed oil.

NOTE: The Sun-Thickened linseed oil is actual pure boiled linseed oil and the other two are pure raw linseed oil (no fake Chinese crap with toxic garbage in it) it is non-toxic and requires no health labeling and you can rub it on bare handed, see photo.

[Patrick Chadwick]

Before we have yet another thread contaminated by the "cartridge lubrication war" could the moderator please step in?

Edward, I respect your knowledge and the documents that you have brought into your postings, but I fear that you are letting yourself be too easily provoked by other members who prefer to hide their identity. They press your button and you go bang, which encourages them to keep on pressing.

To those other members I say, give it a rest guys! What you are doing really looks like trollish behavior.

Patrick

[Edward Horton]

Patrick Chadwick

You are 100% correct, Albert AKA GunnerSam and I have been banned from Gunboards for excessively heated, bloodthirsty, rip your lungs out arguing which ireload2 contributed to greatly.

This running gun battle spilled over to this forum and for that I apologize to all the members here and I do mean it. BUT this doesn’t mean I still don’t want to hit Alfred and ireload2 over the head with a big hammer repeatedly in a dark alley some place. (just not here)

I will do my best to ignore these two trolls who decided to bring the fight here to this forum and stay OUT of their stupidity and not bother the other peace loving non-inherent weakness Enfield loving peoples hair.

BUT here is the problem dealing with case lube, I have the utmost respect for Parashooter and he is older and wiser than I and Parashooter knows more because he has been reloading and shooting longer than I have (Parashooter is more chronologically gifted than I am and is a better speller)

The one and ONLY thing I disagree with Parashooter on is lubing cases because I damaged a rifle doing it, I do not know how I did it, if it was carelessness in not cleaning the chamber before shooting regular ammunition or what.

To Parashooter I will say this again, if it is done correctly it does no harm at all because I did in the past, BUT if you fall asleep at the switch and forget to clean the chamber or have ANY oil or grease in the chamber with full power loads your rifle is in for a damaging pounding.

I’m saying this because I respect Parashooter and he is NOT a troll, and a wiser older person just like Parashooter taught me the same case lube trick, his name was Bill Kushland and he was a retired Air Force Master Sgt who served in the Eight Air Force in England during WWII on B-17s. Bill is no longer with us and is in that big shooting range in the sky.

[Amatikulu]

As a moderator who is also a collector, a reloader and a shooter of Lee Enfield Rifles, I would like to say to all those who share my passion, that we try to promote the sharing of our experiences, knowledge and passion for our chosen hobbies.

When this turns into a negative thread because of strong personality clashes or idealogical differences, we are expected to "moderate" the thread to bring the posters back into a more "gentlemanly" debate on the topic.

We try our best to be fair to all, send PM's, post warnings, try to bring the subject back into line, but when our efforts fail or people are not receptive to our message, we resort to using our "power" to censure individuals. This is not something we do do in isolation. There is normally a full airing of the topic on the private moderators forum where our feelings on the thread are tested and checked with other moderators. Our actions follow on from this and we take the good and the bad comments,in the form of PM's from the punished and their supporters or opponents - but simply don't reply.

By the time someone has been censured, a normal person should have been able to read the signals - we aren't in the business of simply "thwacking" members for our own amusement or personal bias ( despite what some of the censured might believe). Our sole purpose of being moderators is to help the global membership by providing a forum in which all can participate and have an enjoyable experience.

Sometimes we get it right and sometimes we get it wrong - but hey, we're humans, not Gods. The thing that all members should remember is that all moderators believe they are serving the general good of this website and we volunteered to do it because we felt we could help.

Amatikulu

[Edward Horton]

Amatikulu

And “some” hot headed people of Scottish ancestry still paint their faces blue and like to “whack” certain people with their claymore when they feel the Enfield clan has been insulted.

And possibly on just a few occasions one of the really thick headed Scotsmen might have been a little slow in putting away his large sharp claymore, war hammer, dagger, brass knuckles etc.

[ireload2]

[Edward Horton]

Ireload2

I already have a photo of you below, but thanks for letting me know what you think you look like in your dreams.