-
FREE MEMBER
NO Posting or PM's Allowed
Ross threads
I recently got a badly bubba'd M10 Ross. I have another good M10 and M5 Ross. I am wondering if anyone knows what kind or threads are on a Ross M10 barrel? I think this one is a candidate for a rebarrel job.
Thanks,
Col.P.
Information
|
Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current. |
|
-
10-19-2006 05:06 PM
# ADS
Friends and Sponsors
-
Advisory Panel
Quick measurements: Shank is 1.125" diameter, 0.732" long, 12 square threads per inch. There is a counterbore, plus an extractor cut on the breech face. There are reports of 1910 Rosses being rebarrelled for a variety of cartridges. The action is strong, and can handle long cartridges, but magazine feed is a concern.
FWIW, in my experience Ross barrels are timed, so an original barrel with a decent bore could be installed without too much hassle.
Last edited by tiriaq; 10-19-2006 at 06:02 PM.
-
-
-
FREE MEMBER
NO Posting or PM's Allowed
On the subject of the Ross, since it seems as though lots of you are from the 'Great White North'....Is there any availability of parts in Canada?
I have a MkII that had been attacked by bubba & would eventually like to
bring it back to military trim.
-
Hmm... tough order. Small parts perhaps, but wood is unobtainium I think. I'm not a Ross man though, so perhaps someone else will chime in.
Союз нерушимый республик свободных Сплотила навеки Великая Русь. Да здравствует созданный волей народов Единый, могучий Советский Союз!
-
-
Advisory Panel
Unaltered stocks are extremely difficult to obtain. Mk. II nosecaps seem to be more commonly encountered than those for Mk. IIIs. The few Mk. III nosecaps I've seen are the later forged type. I've never seen a spare stamped Mk. III nosecap.
If your Mk. II has been cut in front of the middle band, it is a straightforeward restoration to do a splice under the band, and "stretch" the forend. Mk. IIs seem to have been stocked with European walnut, and its lighter and sometimes finer grained than North American.
You're in the US, I take it. Is your Ross a Mk. II*** with US property marks?
Further to restoring a stock: Ideally, the less done to the original stock, the better. Before starting the job, search for a piece of wood that will match the original stock as much as possible. Cut the new wood to the appropriate size, leaving it square. Inlet the barrel channel. Fit the nosecap. You will have to remove the front sight base to install the nosecap. Shape the new wood until the middle band will slide along it. Cut the original stock just inside the middle band. Cut the new wood to final length. Drill the original stock, and the new wood for a couple of dowels. Check the assembly. Make sure contours are correct, length is correct. See if a bayonet can be mounted; this will confirm correct length. Now, start staining, oiling, shellacing, varnishing, as necessary, to match the colour of the original stock as closely as possible. Your wood and finish are new; the original is close to 100 years old. You will likely have to experiment, perhaps add nicks and dents. Only when you are satisfied should you glue the new wood in place. Apply some wax to the barrel, band and screws, so the glue will not adhere. Don't expect that it will be impossible to detect that the forend has been spliced, but try for the best job. If the job turns out to be a disaster, you can always cut off the new wood, and replace the forend tip that you trimmed off. The rifle will not be worse off than it was before you started.
Last edited by tiriaq; 10-20-2006 at 07:07 PM.
-
-
FREE MEMBER
NO Posting or PM's Allowed
The stock is shot as far as a restoration goes. I would need that along with a nosecap, buttplate & front sight hood with screws. I think everything else is there.
Oops almost forgot a rear sling swivel.
I can't tell you if it's a Mk II*** or not. the only markings I can see (short of removing it from the stock) are "Ross Rifle Co.Quebec. Canada. 1905" on the LH receiver rail
Under the rear handguard on the barrel shank is what looks like Brit proofs...crossed flags, on top of the crossing point of the flags are a crown, a D to the left of the crossing point, a C to the right & a 2P directly under the crossing point. Just aft of that marking is a Crown over "I" over "Q".
Thats really all I can find.without taking the wood off. (Blueing looks real good under the rear handguard !!)
Last edited by New Philly Sports; 10-20-2006 at 11:35 PM.
-
Advisory Panel
That's a Mk.II***. Note how the handguard notches down into the forend. I have seen one II*** stock on eBay in the past two years. Someone in Virginia broke what seemed to be a decent rifle for the parts; was selling everything but the receiver. You might want to keep your eyes open for a rifle with a better stock, but cut barrrel, and try to make up a composite specimen.
Front sight hoods have been reproduced, if an original can't be found.
On the CGN board, contact "wheaty". He has a cache of odds and ends of Rossbits.
-
-
FREE MEMBER
NO Posting or PM's Allowed
pardon my ignorance but what is the CGN board?
Thanks for the tip.
-
Head Moderator
(Founding Partner)
Site Founder
-
-
FREE MEMBER
NO Posting or PM's Allowed
Thanks mate!