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Desiring M1 Carbine knowledge
Hello, I recently found this site and it looks like it's full of good information and knowledge. I am interested in knowing as much as I can about a carbine I have. I have looked for identifying marks on the exposed parts I can see and they are as follows:
Barrel: Underwood over 3-44
Receiver: 2676... and under the ser. no. is a "B"
Bottom of trigger guard: "O"
Rear sight side: I.R.CO. 7160060
Stock markings:
-left side of stock is stamped with ser. no. that matches receiver
-In sling slot on ramp: "10"
-Top left corner of stock near receiver: "5 0"
-Under stamped ser. no.: O.G. inside of a box
It also has a bayonet lug and swivel safety.
Are there any other locations I can obtain identifying marks that would help with your diagnosis?
And, thank you to the experts here for helping me understand what I have.
Skyman
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09-16-2009 12:13 PM
# ADS
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Thanks for the information. The ser. no. on the stock is in the same location as yours, though no remnants of paint in the impressions. There are no marks on the right side of the stock as on yours however. the other stock markings are on the left side as I indicated in the original post.
I also have an M4 bayonet like yours.
Skyman
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Welcome to a new world of enjoyment! You have come to the right place for info. A bit more info would be good.Look under the rear site, manufacure would help. Pics are also good. The more info about your carbine posted, the more info we can give you.
M1a1's-R-FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
TSMG's-R-MORE FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ENJOY LIFE AND HAVE FUN!!!
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Harlan,
Aren't you the prankster.
You showed him how to take it down. Now he has all these parts on a bench and is trying to remember how they go back together. 
I know most things just go into reverse. But the are a few helpful hints.
That breakdown didn't show a bolt tool. I know they cost $30-40. A $5 trigger spring tool is faster then dental floss. And maybe someone with only one carbine doesn't feel the need to spend the money on these tools. That would be understandable.

And I also use a cutdown pin to assemble the trigger, sear, sear spring, first outside of the housing. Then drop in into the housing, line up the hole and use a regular pin to push out the shorter one. I used to do it the way showed. It would beat up my finger tips and cuticles big time. Maybe my fingers are too fat. Works for me, maybe not everyone.
Showing trigger, sear, sear spring and short pin loose:

Showing trigger, sear, sear spring and short pin together:

Showing trigger, sear, sear spring and short pin dropping into trigger housing:

Showing short trigger pin being pushed out with long normal trigger pin:
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The Following 5 Members Say Thank You to JimF4M1s (Deceased) For This Useful Post:
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I use a bic ball point pen with the guts pulled out to R and R the trigger spring.
Handy and plenty of them laying around.
Charlie-painter777
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Nice tip on the trigger assembly jim.
that sear spring can really fight back some days.
Charlie
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Thanks gentlemen.
I've printed out the dissassembly instructions so we'll se how ambitious I get now.
I don't know about the special tools, but I can probably come up with that specialty "stripped out Bic pen" tool.
I will definitely look under the rear sight to find a manufacture name. The serial number does match the range assigned to Underwood according to a manufacture's list I saw elsewhere. I don't guess the matching stock ser. no. means anything? That was probably added later as an inventory control measure? The numbers appear to be hand imprinted one at a time like in iamarangemaster's post above.
Iamarangemaster, what clues you in to it being a re-import from Isreal?
Thanks again,
skyman
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OK, I checked under the rear sight and the receiver is marked "underwood". So the barrel and receiver match manufacture. How do you determine if it's the original stock? The matching serial no. stamped on the stock isn't original, correct?