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Advisory Panel

Originally Posted by
gravityfan
I am intrigued. I have been reloading .303 for a while, but I've not heard of this O-ring thing. Please tell me/us more; size, type, source, etc.
If you handload for a .303 with generous headspace, there's often no need to mess with bolt heads - changing the rifle's clearances to yield longer case life. You can control cartridge end-play simply by changing technique.
When you fire a new case for the first time, use an improvised spacer ahead of the rim - anything from a precision metal washer to dental floss can work to hold the the cartridge head firmly against the bolt face and eliminate or reduce stretch even if end-play without the spacer would be significant. Another way of accomplishing the same end is to use a bullet seated out far enough to jam into the lands, "headspacing" on the bullet instead of the case. Such techniques are useful only if the rifle has excess headspace (or cartridges have abnormally thin rims). With normal headspace and cartridges, initial stretch isn't enough to worry much about.
O-rings are a slightly more costly spacer material preferred by some.
After you've fire-formed your new cases they will fill the chamber fully, stopping on the shoulder just like a rimless cartridge. If you neck size, you'll have zero "headspace". If you have to full length size, adjust the die so the cases chamber with just a bit of resistance in the last few degrees of bolt rotation. The result, if combined with reasonable-pressure loads, can be extended case life despite generous headspace.
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12-20-2009 11:50 PM
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Ed,
I was only making observation to the rim gauge. the only constant in the ammo was that they where given it. Of course there where differences in rim thickness, case length etc, thats why the chambers are so generous, to accommodate for any ammo supplied from any factory in the world. Te target shooters like Jim sweet had only one way to control the quality of ammo they feed into their rigs and that was to measure rim thickness. they knew what shot good in their rifles and procured ammo that fitted. they had no control over any of the loading procedures etc that you mention. It was new off the shelve stuff, fired once and discarded.
we now have the luxury of being able to afford and have the components readily available.
My obs where only ever pointed to the measuring of rims, not headspaceing, that was allready done and hence the 2 boltheads, to accommodate to the variance in tolerances of Mil factory ammo.
Keep Quigley over there, he is full of it!!! magnum PI indeed!!!
Cheers and all the best wishes for Xmas, To coin a phrase, Hope your chooks turn into Emu's and kick your dunny door down!!
NED
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Advisory Panel
Then to add insult to injury the American SAAMI chamber standards are NOT the same as
British
military chamber standards.
What do you imagine to be the significant differences between the SAAMI and British chamber standards?

Lower (British) drawing courtesy of Mr. Horton. Upper from SAAMI.
From what I can see, base diameter (.462"), shoulder diameter (.4036", .4045"), neck diameter (.345" at shoulder, .341" at mouth), leade (~.313 > .3102) and length to mouth (2.158"+.064"=2.222") are virtually identical, shoulder position and radii very much the same, and there is no practical difference if one remembers to add the .064" rim clearance to the British length figures (to adjust for the SAAMI lengths being measured from the bolt face instead of the barrel face).
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Banned

Originally Posted by
Parashooter
If you handload for a .303 with generous headspace, there's often no need to mess with bolt heads - changing the rifle's clearances to yield longer case life. You can control cartridge end-play simply by changing technique.
When you fire a
new case for the
first time, use an improvised spacer ahead of the rim - anything from a precision metal washer to dental floss can work to hold the the cartridge head firmly against the bolt face and eliminate or reduce stretch even if end-play without the spacer would be significant. Another way of accomplishing the same end is to use a bullet seated out far enough to jam into the lands, "headspacing" on the bullet instead of the case. Such techniques are useful
only if the rifle has excess headspace (or cartridges have abnormally thin rims). With normal headspace and cartridges, initial stretch isn't enough to worry much about.
O-rings are a slightly more costly spacer material preferred by some.
After you've fire-formed your new cases they will fill the chamber fully, stopping on the shoulder just like a rimless cartridge. If you neck size, you'll have zero "headspace". If you have to full length size, adjust the die so the cases chamber with just a bit of resistance in the last few degrees of bolt rotation. The result, if combined with reasonable-pressure loads, can be extended case life despite generous headspace.
Parashooter
Your entire premise for your original “Headspace 101” was oiling and greasing your cartridge cases to keep the cases from stretching and thinning in the web area. When “someone” made your method “controversial” you edited your “Head space 101” to eliminate the words oil and grease.
The problem I have with your comments here is you admitted that you still oil your cases to fire form them, you read about the rubber o-rings like I did at Jouster
and yet you are here writing about fishing line and dental floss as if you use it every day or at least after every meal. 
Parashooter the o-ring method came from a Canadian
at Jouster, the rubber o-ring centers the case in the chamber and fishing line and dental floss will not. I will say it again Parashooter you can’t have it both ways.
Oiling your cases doubles your bolt thrust and shortens the Enfield’s life expectancy by half and your “Headspace 101” told everyone to oil and grease their cases for over seven years.
Mr. Laidler
told us during an Enfield FTR/overhaul an oiled proof round was fired and if the bolt was hard to open the action was scraped. This was because the surface hardness in the lug recesses had worn through.
It’s a little late for fishing line and dental floss and changing horses in midstream on a Enfield battered by excessive bolt thrust caused by oiled cases.
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Originally Posted by
miketuite
Both of my No.4 Mk.1* rifles have failed the no-go and field guages. They both have #1 bolt heads. Am I correct that replacing the bolt heads with higher numbered ones will/might fix the problem? If so, I have a couple of questions: How can I determine which bolt head (#2 or#3) will yield correct headspace? Where am I likely to find them?
Thank you for your help.
Mike
Above is the initial post on this thread. I think the question has been answered
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