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12-19-2009 11:09 PM
# ADS
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Rifleman, I did one last winter. Check it out on the Columbian Mauser thread. I used cold blue Birchwood Casey. If you decide to go this way I have a couple of tips for you. Others may offer other methods. HTH.....Frank
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nice mauser
i couldn't figure out weather or not to blue the locking lug recesses and all the small gaps any tips?
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My bolt and floorplate were not blued. I blued everything else. Starting and keeping things clean helps, no bare fingers and such. HTH.....Frank
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Advisory Panel
I just wouldn't cold blue. It has always looked second rate to me. I haven't seen Frank's work by the way, it could just make me eat my words. But if you wanted to get the best look, I would bead blast with silica, hand polish the surfaces that show and do a proper hot blue. You sound like you might be in the area of Valley Guns in Petawawa and they could give some advice. You could look them up on web and study their costs. Sometimes it's worth it to let someone who's done it before handle it.
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Why not a proper Rust Blue? It's probably what was done originally.
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go to caswellplating.com and check the black oxide kit if you want to cold blue.
Personally I recommend hot bluing. I did my Spanish mauser and it looks like new.
Whatever you decide, remember that the better the finish is before bluing, the better it will look after. I usually finish with 2000 grit emery.
Just take your time and good luck
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I used a birchwood casey bluing kit. It seems to work really well but the bolt bule wears out really fast other than that I was very satisfied with the finish.
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As far as Ican find out, Mauser didn´t do rust blueing. When they took over Luger production from Loewe, rust blueing stopped and they were then chemically blued.
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During WWII the rifles were hot dipped in blue. I would do the prep work myself and mail it off for bluing. Good luck.
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