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Drill rifles were deactivated in varying degrees. But I think all of them had the mag cut-off welded. To reactivate, the weld would have to be ground so the mag cut-off switch could be replaced, which in the process removed the finish on the receiver in that area. Thats your first tell-tale sign. I'll let the serious collectors go into further detail!
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01-07-2010 11:49 AM
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if you look at the picture, you can see the dark area were the cut off was welded.
common of a recovered Drill rifle
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Some drill rifles were only spot welded on the mag cut off which you could chip off with a chisel. Look for discoloration around the mag cut-off. I believe that even if the rifle has been re-parked that area will still have the discoloration from the heat. chuckindenver can confirm this. Some rifles were torched on the under side of the receiver only viewable when the stock is off.
-Jeff L
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they used a stainless steel rod to weld these.
so it will normally stand out like a sore thumb...or finger if you like:}
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I have an SC sporter that I had done in 1966 when it was OK to do that. Accuracy is right at, or maybe a tiny bit more than 1 MOA, i.e.; at the limit of my ability. I have not kept track of the game killed with it but it has been considerable over 44 years of use. I have an Air Service magazine (OK; not just cheap, and hard to find...) and have used the rifle in 3-gun "combat" matches; definitely a FUN rifle and highly useful. Gosh they're just so smooth and shoot so well! My personal inclination would be to leave it as is and put a good Leupold 3-9X on it. By the way my rifle is set up a good deal like yours with milled TG and Buehler safety.
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Beware. I bought a very nice sporter 03 off GB that came with a Weaver V12 at a very fair price. Bought it because of the scope. Couldn't put five shots in a 6" circle. Had wild flyers shooting from a rest. Put it away in the safe for about a year. Got it out one day and decided to find the problem. Everything checked out. Was shooting at 100 yards and couldn't seem to keep it in focus. Turned the parallex adjustment bell and it came off in my hand (broken). Found the problem. I now know why the scope was included at such a low price ($300). Need new scope or repair of this one. Uggg.
Good luck.
Jim
*********************************
"Me. All the rest are deados!"
67th Company, 5th Marines 1st Sgt. Daniel "Pop" Hunter's response to 1st Lt. Jonas Platt's query "Who is your Commander"?, Torcy side of Hill 142, Belleau Wood, 8:00 am, 6 Jun 1918.
Semper Fidelis!

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Trade your rifle and the $400 for a real 03A3.
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Originally Posted by
MJ1
Trade your rifle and the $400 for a real 03A3.

Is that an Offer ?
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Drill Rifle marks
Having been duped once I now know most of what to look for in a reworked drill rifle. First off the barrel is welded to the receiver at the bottom. So even if done well there will be a difference in the finish at the bottom edge of the receiver. If done poorly you will still see part of the weld metal on the bottom edge.
The other place is at the magazine cut off. This is welded up so that the bolt cannot be removed from the receiver. Usually a dremel is used to cut it loose. Even if there isn't a lot of weld metal there will be places in the finish where the weld had to be ground off. Another place to look is in the track that the detent in the mag cut off rides. It will usually be marred up in some way. Look at a regular receiver and you will see that this groove is nice and smooth and has a couple of stops in it.
The welding can take the heat treatment out of the metal causing the metal to be too soft. I tried to rebarrel it and the receiver rails bent. I would stay away from these unless it is going to be a wall hanger.
Bill R.