What Carbine to get?

[I.H.1989]

I currently own a Quality Hardware M1 carbine, all of it vintage components. Right now, I'm on a deployment, but i'm considering purchasing another M1 carbine when i get back t the states. the question is which one to get? should i get a GI version, Auto-Ordanance, or Fulton armory. what are hte pros and cons of each?

i would appreciate any input you could provide me.

Information

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[JimF4M1s (Deceased)]

I.H.1989,

First off, thank you for your service.

The GI M1 Carbine has been used in three US wars. And countless other places around the world. It has a place in history. I had one on my boat in VN. To me that is an important factor. I like owning a weapon with history. And one I carried means even more.

Along with historical value is monetary value. A GI carbine, even a shooter, has been going up in value over time. Nice carbines that sold for $300 years back are now $1200-$2500 and up. Imports in 1989 were $89. Those same carbines today are in the $500-$800 range and up. Carbines have and I think will continue to increase in value.

The GI carbines were built to certain specs. Reliable for seventy years so far. Does a part break now and then, sure it does. But you can find a replacement.

Fulton Armory is using a commercial receiver and a mix of parts with a new stock. Priced at $1500-$1600. I haven't seen them in hand.

Auto-Ordnance is newly made by Kahr. Priced at $816. People I know who have bought them are having issues.

I see zero collector value in either of them. And I feel they will start losing value as soon as you get one.

For me it would be a GI carbine of whatever vintage that had the features I wanted. At the Fulton Armory price range you can get a very nice GI WW2 configured carbine. And at the Auto-Ordnance price range a decent shooter. When I go back packing one around I have a stock that I don't mind marking up in the woods. I can switch to that. When I go to the range, they are back looking nice and drawing compliments.

Now that's just me, an old fart now.

Jim

Assault Craft Unit 1
Viet Nam
1968, 69, 70

[imarangemaster]

I personally had a Auto Ordnance (I always have GIs, but took the Auto ordnance in on a trade) It was new in the box. It was terrible!

1) parts are NOT 100% interchangeable with GI. They looked like GI parts, but some were different.
2) they use cast receivers and cast slides. USGI are forged and much stringer.
3) it took three tries with customer service to get a stock that even came close to fitting. (they were too long and allowed the handguard to pop off.
4) It would not even feed Remington 110 FMJ, not even from USGI 15 round magazines. I would have 2 or 3 failure to feed in each magazine.

I sold it to a WW2 re-enactor who plugged the barrel for blanks, thus saving a USGI from being lost to History.

At that time (2007 to 2008) I was working part time at a local gunshop were i lived in Southern Illinois. He sold three Auto Ordnance while I worked there, and all three came back on warranty problems. After that, he would not carry them, or even order one in for a customer.

USGI carbines can regularly be found cheaper than Auto Ordnance junk.

[mike radford]

A USGI is the only way to go. It will hold its value and will be repairable. Any USGI beats the replicas, even a Blue Sky import IMO. Thanks for your service and stay safe.

[DaveHH]

I would say that in spite of being somewhat "long in the tooth" most are still very good weapons. Quite a feat considering that the youngest is at least 67 years old. You will occasionally find one with a problem but it can usually be fixed. The wear items like extractors are still fairly plentiful and things like slides can be repaired with a little effort. Most barrels are not even close to being shot out and will withstand decades of use. New barrels are relatively cheap. If you want complete reliability, a good fresh magazine and slide spring using factory made ammo will make it trouble free. Reloads can be an issue, but once you get the knack of it, that goes away. The real reason for owning a genuine GI made one is that they are unique in history. 6.5 million made in about four years and never another. All parts interchange in spite of being made by 9 different makers. Read "War Baby" and you'll understand the story. A piece of investment cast, tossed together parts that don't fit and have no human interaction beyond programming a CNC machine are just not the same. With the GI, you are buying something that will never be done again, an example of what America was once capable of doing and doing right. Never happen today.

[imarangemaster]

Well said!

[I.H.1989]

Well, i guess that settles it. i want to have one for a shooter mostly, but if a GI version is a better investment in the long run than a repo, then maybe i should go for a GI version.

anyone have suggestions on ones i should keep an eye out for and ones i should avoid from purchasing? also, what sort of spare parts should i stock up on?

[imarangemaster]

Inland were the most Common, and are usually the cheapest. About the only thing to look for is muzzle wear. If you don.t have a muzzle erosion gauge, a USGI M2 30-06 FMJ round can be used.. 1/4 inch showing is @ 0, 3/16 inch @ 1, 1/8 inch @ 2, 1/16 inch about 3, and just bottoming out is about 4. These are approximate. If it swallows the round past the neck, it is either shot out or has a rebated crown, but that is rare. THey actually can shoot well, even with a 3 or 4.

The most important thing for M1 carbine accuracy is how the barrel/receiver "hang" in the stock. CMP has excellent instructions on it in the attached link. Lots of other information there in the links, to, including load data.

Enjoy!

CMP Help: Stock Cleaning, Ammo, Mag ID Accuracy - CMP Forums

---------- Post added at 12:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:32 PM ----------

As far as parts, A spare recoil spring, extractor, extractor spring and plunger are about all I keep. A recoil spring should be 10 1/4" long. 10 1/8" will work, but when they get to be around 10" they will give you problems. Check the extractor of chips. A bolt disassembly tool is an excellent investment. Finally, the piston nut should be tight, and the piston move freely.

[I.H.1989]

[/COLOR]As far as parts, A spare recoil spring, extractor, extractor spring and plunger are about all I keep. A recoil spring should be 10 1/4" long. 10 1/8" will work, but when they get to be around 10" they will give you problems. Check the extractor of chips. A bolt disassembly tool is an excellent investment. Finally, the piston nut should be tight, and the piston move freely.

Would it be a good idea to have a couple extra receivers and barrels as well, or would those be unnecessary? the reason i ask is because i had to have the receiver on my first one replaced

[Neal Myers]

I'd look at the Gunbroker auctions, preferably one advertised as coming from CMP. (Bonus for original documentation from CMP.)

Avoid those with import markings. While there are some good ones, most were abused by the Korean army. If a seller doesn't say "not import marked", ask.

Avoid any with Korean markings on the stock.

Neal