Looking to join the club

[Jdmyrm]

Hey all,

So been working like a fiend and may just be getting a break finally. Time for a reward right?

I've always wanted a .303 Bren lmg, I just love the look of the gun, the history of the gun, and that I have 2 .303 rifles already seems like a good pick!

I've been reading up on the forums and digging through the knowledge base but didn't find the same level of detail on Bren markings and what not compared to some other guns so I thought I could post a general "what am I getting into" thread.

I've ordered the Ian Skennerton book on the Bren, is there any other literature I should read up on so I can check any Bren gun for the correct markings?

If I can get away with it, I'd love a ww2 one for the history of it, in this day and age if I come across one at all I'll consider myself fortunate. On that note, have I missed the boat? I've seen some recent threads where members are getting new barrels (some even period ones), and it leads me to hope that I can still find a Bren gun out there in the first place. For those of us the USA, is it a matter of calling down the list of class 3 dealers until you hit gold? Do I need more than one barrel?

Thanks for your time in reading and response, I do apologize if its a tad verbose, the spirit moved me to write and it's the end of a long, long day.

Cheers!
JD

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[Daan Kemp]

More than one barrel is essential for sustained automatic fire. That means you want to shoot hundreds per hour, the barrel needs cooling to prevent increased wear, etc.

If that isn't the goal one barrel should last decades of occasional use. After all a machine gun isn't really intended for pinpoint accuracy.

[ActionYobbo]

For a transferable you just have to search and have $30k ready to drop.
barrels are cheap and available so grab a few and mags get as low as $3 sometimes.

[browningautorifle]

I've always wanted a .303 Bren lmg

Have a look at Subguns.com http://subguns.com/ and keep a watch there. Also Ruben Mendiola https://dealernfa.com/ and you may find one there...

[TactAdv]

For a transferable you just have to search and have $30k ready to drop.
barrels are cheap and available so grab a few and mags get as low as $3 sometimes.

Little out of date on prices, you're going to have to drop north of $48-50K for any Mark of original transferable. Rewelds will command $30K+ . Pre-86 Dealer Samples will go toward $23-25K, Post-Samples will start around $8-9K and up.
.

[Jdmyrm]

50k, maybe month after next . I'd thought it was around 30k as Mr E had suggested, a bit more saving to go if that's the case. Thanks for the links guys, much appreciated!

[Brit plumber]

With regards to markings, they are all on the body. A WW2 gun will have the manufacturers name on the side or their logo. There will also be a date under the name or logo and a Mk number some where near these markings. The serial number is on the top at the back near the back sight. Some of these marking may be obliterated on a reweld, especially the later dewats.

Likely to be encountered manufacturers are Inglis (Canadian), Lithgow (Australia), Enfield & Daimler/monotype (UK).

[Jdmyrm]

As far as function goes, rewelds at all compromised? Don't want to be too picky, and as far as "investment" is concerned I doubt I have to worry about any Bren losing value, but I do intend to shoot, not just look at my Bren.
Forgive the silly question but remind me a reweld is one where which part of the gun was chopped into bits and welded back together?

JD

[browningautorifle]

a reweld is one where which part of the gun was chopped into bits and welded back together?

"Reweld"...does that mean welded a second time? That term has been discussed to death here. We know what you're talking about though.

Guns used to be simply cut to pieces and then enterprising individuals welded the parts together and good to go...so they changed the spec and now parts are removed. Some were torch cut and the ragged edges gave more challenge but not impossible. Most issue would be loss of the metal's properties from extreme heat... Most of the existing runners that have been welded together are good looking or they would have been redone until they were either junk or finished. Don't worry about the ones that have been reassembled. They should be cheaper though.

[Brian Dick]

I've worked on a 1940 D/D Enfield reweld but the problem it had was not related to the body. It was a gas cylinder change to bring it back to FTR spec. I wrote about that job here several years ago. I've fired it and another reweld Inglis Mk.II and they functioned flawlessly. BAR is correct that most of the cut bodies that were used from 1968 to 1986 to build transferable guns were done with bandsaws. It was later that ATF required the torch cuts x 3 removing 1/4" of metal with each cut making life rewelding them much more difficult. Some of the saw cut bodies are so well done that you can't even tell, especially if they have a baked paint finish over the Parkerizing. If you can get a deal on one, I wouldn't hesitate to jump. As for me, I'm happy with my post sample Inglis Mk.II and Enfield L4A3. I can't even begin to afford a transferable gun so the Gubmint rentals will have to do!

Oh yeah, my usual shameless plug. I have excellent reprint Infantry Training Pams available for both the Mk.1, (Brit.), and Mk.II, (Can.), guns here if in need. Cheap, cheerful and very useful.