Fixing the Draws on a No4?

[ssj]

I'm not familiar with "aero approved wood adhesive" Any suggestions? Most of what I use here is Marine Tex Epoxy.

http://www.marinetex.com/marinetexepoxyputty.html

According to page 46 of the NRA rules it states.

http://thecmp.org/wp-content/uploads/CMPGamesRules.pdf

Must be in as-issued condition. No fiberglass stocks, special bedding
(glass bedding, etc.), match triggers or other special accurizing are
permitted.

What about say OZ armourers using brass of aluminum pads? Not as issued maybe but a field repair. ( I can hear Peter choking on his scotch now.)

I have done 2 sets of repairs myself and I used brass pads with brass screws, but they are range guns and no one cares for club shoots. You could of course make them out of a hard wood and I think some were. The advantage of pads is you can shim them to get the barrel spot on along its groove. Now if you are good and I mean very good at woodworking OK, I tried Peter's wood way and gave up simply shimming them as its a very complex 3d thing..


Looking at the rules it doesnt say anything about using specific glues So I would use Epoxy myself for its durability.

[Seaspriter]

I used brass pads with brass screws,

SSJ -- I don't believe this is just an amateur's aberration. I just purchased a 1918 Lithgow that was marked "R"above "MA 2/46" (which means, I believe, Returned for Refurbishing). It received an FTR level overhaul with new forend. The draws are reinforced with brass pads and screws just like your picture. There is little question in my mind this was done by a Professional Military Armourer, not just a private gunsmith. (BTW the draws are the tightest I have on any of my 7 Enfields)

My assumption is (please correct me Aussies if I'm wrong) because Australian coachwood is not as hard as walnut, the brass draw pads were apparently installed during the FTR to prevent wear/compression/deterioration that would accelerate as gun oil got into the wood.

[Ridolpho]

To quote from Skennerton and Labudda (S.A.I.S. No. 19): " Walnut insert blocks were used between 1927 and 1934 and from 1934, a double pin stock bolt.............Copper plates secured by screws were then used, discontinued as a wartime economy in December 1942 but then applied again by Slazengers from May of 1943".

Ridolpho

[ssj]

No I dont believe it is an "an amateur's aberration" I also read that alloy/aluminum was used during/late ww2? but this is a southern hemisphere repair. The weird thing I found on one gun was it had copper plates but steel screws and they had taken the battering and not the copper! Fortunately the receiver was a harder steel so didnt suffer. Anyway I replaced with brass screws just in case. Its certainly not that un-common for NZ target guns to have these. My metal draws are also the tightest as it is very easy to add 5thou shim both sides to get it tight.

[Peter Laidler]

A shallow wood screw, down the grain, especially a soft grain is pixx poor practice according to my boss in New Zealand where I frst saw this practice. Just try it for yourself on a piece of fore-end, using the same screw. Ask yourself this. Would a cabinet maker do it? We DO do something similar of course, but holding a butt plate on with a butt plate screw is a totally different matter I'm sure you'd agree.

Just my opinion, based on nothing more that simple experience

[Seaspriter]

alloy/aluminum was used during/late ww2? but this is a southern hemisphere repair. The weird thing I found on one gun was it had copper plates but steel screws

As sailors and boat restorers are quickly taught, never put aluminum and copper/brass near each other. They create galvanic reaction, just like a battery; an electrolytic reaction will occur, resulting in the destruction of the aluminum. It's accelerated wherever salt is present in the atmosphere. That's why all aluminum for marine applications are special alloys. Brass, copper, and steel are okay as partners.