Ejection where art thou?

[Wineman]

So far that gun still seems to work without much help The Inland has always been very reliable (Dad got it with an NRA Subscription). The only time it caused any issues was with some Mexican ammo I tried to run through it in the 1970's. That stuff would misfire and stick bullets in the throat when you tried to eject them. A cleaning rod was needed every two to three rounds. My friends Underwood would stovepipe the empty every third shot (Rem UMC factory stuff). It appears a spring change and cleaning has cured that. They are both Mixmasters and the Underwood has a few Inland parts and the Inland a few S'G' ones. Thanks for all the help.

Dave

[DaveHH]

Most ejection issues can be changed by trying a different ejector type, possibly reverting to a type 1 or 2. They each throw the brass in a different way. The classic shell in the forehead can be changed immediately by changing to a different shaped ejector. My other question would be if the springs were changed to something like Wolf springs. They like to advertise that they are more powerful than standard. Wolf springs appear to be just a bag of regular industrial springs that happen to fit the carbine somewhat. I bought one of their kits and the only spring that appeared even close to genuine GI was the recoil spring. The rest were either too long, too fat or wouldn't fit in some way. The carbine doesn't need stronger springs, it needs the proper springs and just because the Wolf springs worked for some people doesn't mean that they are the best thing to use. There is an engineering dynamic in firearms that builds in reliability. For instance, in the AK47 the bolt travel exceeds the required distance by almost 50% so if things get dirty or worn, the bolt still does its job. Most US small arms are not this way and a too strong or too weak spring can alter function in a negative way

[imarangemaster]

Years ago, I tried a Sarco "Extra Power" recoil spring, which was supposed to cure ejection and feeding problems....It was a waste of money. While it fed everything from the mags when it did travel all the way to the rear, I had a lot short strokes with it. Fulton Armory seems to have good Carbine springs. Chestnut ridge supply used to have lots of GI carbine springs, but doesn't any more.

[browningautorifle]

The carbine doesn't need stronger springs, it needs the proper springs

Zactly...

[Wineman]

Well yes it was a Wolf spring kit. And you are correct they are not a perfect fit. The Extractor plunger spring is really problematic, way too long. That one I replaced with a USGI spring. The ejector spring, recoil spring and sear spring are all Wolf on the Underwood. I used USGI on trigger spring and hammer spring. The Mag and safety springs I left alone.

The Inland has a new USGI recoil spring, the rest are vintage 1960 or older. As I may have previously stated, during the "who cares its just an old military rifle" period in the 1970's I put a Fajen stock, new blued barrel band, metal handguard and scope on the Inland (one of the stamped Numrich shell deflector mounts with a tapped hole and the the other end in the dovetail). After a few years I took the scope off and put the stamped sight back on. Six or seven years ago, I searched my mom's house for the original stock but it got tossed. I ended up getting a new III barrel band, Potbelly SA stock and handguard (Birch I think), sling and oiler. A backwards set screw fills the hole in the side of the receiver (I know but hey it is what it is and I wont do it again). At one time I used a LEE Loader kit for the Carbine. It was full length and is a real pain to pound those little cases in and out. Even with a press and carbide dies, sizing cases is a real chore.

Dave

[imarangemaster]

I use either Rainier Ballistics or Berry's copper plated 110s for reloading. I use a CCI small rifle or #41 (223 primer) and 15 grains of WW296. It prints the same POA/POI as Remington 110 FMJ and JSP, but is a heck of a lot cheaper to shoot. I use a LEE turret press with auto index and a 4 hole turret. #1 Carbide forming/decaping, #2 Case mouth flair/charging die with a LEE auto-disk II, #3 seating die and light taper crimp, and #4 LEE factory crimp die. I can get two reloads from them before trimming.

[USGI]

I've found that an RCBS shell holder fits the carbine cases much better than the LEE. Many cases are not easy to size and it depends on the brand - even LC varies a lot with different dates of manufacture. The shell holder will often leave an imprint on the case head due to the amount of pressure exerted during sizing. Most of mine need trimmed every time they are sized - cases too long are not good! - Bob

[imarangemaster]

Thanks Bob, I'll have to get an RCBS. I agree that the 30 Carbine shell holder that came with the dies is a bit too loose. I do like the factory crimp die, though you have to back off a tidge or it crimps too much. I use a taper crimp, with a hint of factory crimp.

[Wineman]

My dies are LEE Carbide but I lack the factory crimp die and I agree the #7 LEE shell holder is pretty loose. The RCBS tip is a good one. Funny you mention the base size. The LC72 consistently measures 0.355" at the rim. The RP factory is 0.352-0.355" and I found one at 0.345" it looks like a rebated rim.


I mostly load Lyman 311359 120 gr with a Gas Check over 13 gr of W296 and a CCI SR primer. These mimic the RP factory POI. I also have a bunch of the Lyman 311410 I got from a seller on line. They are 130 grain plain base and have mixed reviews: some like them some don't. At 50 yards they shoot low as the velocity is only 1,600 fps or so but they do stay in a 2" group. These I load over 7 grains of 10B101 surplus flake powder from 50 cal training rounds (about Blue Dot burn speed). It does not meter or scoop very well but my system is to have a dump pan on the digital scale, have the charge weighed and when that station comes up on the LEE Turret press, add powder. When the case goes down, I dump another scoop into the pan. If I need to tweak it I can. Slower than a measure but not by too much. The W296 meters like water. Much cheaper than factory for sure.

Dave

[TDH]

Perhaps the Inland had an ejector spring change at one time for a stronger spring...? And as for Promag, I still find them a crapshoot. Not as bad as they used to be though. Some guys have no problems...

one thing about ProMag is they have a lifetime warranty. They don't work send it back and they will replace it. I had a couple Mini14 mags that wouldn't work. It took a while to get them back but it was during that time they were moving from the Peoples Republic of Califoristan to Arizona

---------- Post added at 12:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:35 PM ----------

The first time you resize 30 carbine it helps to grease them . The case has aa slight taper and you are making it straight walled. After that they should size well with just a carbide die.