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  1. #11
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    I taught myself to reload for pistols and rifles by purchasing used
    press from Ebay and watching the many videos on YouTube showing
    how it is done. Also the reload equip mfgrs like LEEs which are
    the cheapest have many videos on their websites showing how they
    are used. Reloading Supplies Products -MidwayUSA
    is a good source for info about lots of different equipment and supplies
    such as the new technology and very cheap digital scales etc.

    ---------- Post added at 04:55 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:47 AM ----------

    I forgot to say that I did my first reloading by merely pulling 8mm
    steel core bullets from Milsurp ammo and replacing with soft point
    Speer hunting bullets. HA! before that I was taking the lead core
    8mm milsurp cartridges and grinding off the pointed tips to make the
    bullets flat nosed of about 177 in caliber ( the nose part ) this exposed
    the inner core of soft lead and these worked very well on two deer
    and one 175 pound hog. Well the hog was actually shot with a milsurp 8mm round of 198 gr with the bullet actually inserted into the case backwards. That bullet did not result in a pass-through !
    but it did create a heck of a hole in the hog from a distance of 30 yards
    from a YUGO 8mm Mauser.
    Last edited by preventec47; 10-18-2013 at 05:41 AM.

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  3. #12
    Contributing Member CINDERS's Avatar
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    Keep it simple

    Reloading is good economic sense but a few tips, the fastest load is not the best load.
    BASIC INFO
    Look at your data start low go in .2gn incretements same sight picture say at 100m and look for the nodes in the group, you will get dispersion in some loads and others the group will tighten up.
    The load that produces the tightest group node is what to use.
    Clean shells and primer pockets are a must.
    What works in your mates 303 may not work in your besides I do not shoot any one elses reloads in my rifles that no matter what they say and is fraught with dangers.
    Take your time and learn from others as we have all made small errors and are still here to talk about it like a primer in backwards oops.
    At the very start stick to a rigid sequence as that is all reloading is a sequence as when you multi sequence things get missed like primer only in the case.
    Always use a load that is above the cases 50% load capacity that way if you double charge one the case will over flow (Makes sense eh!)

    1 powder on the bench at one time like you do not want 40 grains of Bullseye in your 303.
    303's love stretching cases so keep an eye on them and get yourself a stuck case remover I have heard you can shove another live one up there with the bolt and it jams in the stuck case and will pull it out but do not do this get the right gear
    Anyway there is more I could say but do not want to flood you just enjoy the journey and remember if in doubt ask the wisest of pelicans on this site as the advice is hard won from years of playing the game and you cannot buy that type of experience.

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  5. #13
    Legacy Member WarPig1976's Avatar
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    I have to ask,, did you purposely seat the bullet backwards? or was it untouched surplus? And then,,WHY would you shoot a known defective round?
    Hopefully your paying attention to bullet weight vs powder charge when your swapping bullets. I don't mean to chastise you but for a newbie your doing some "iffy" stuff. I would down shift and get a firmer grip before I proceeded.

  6. Thank You to WarPig1976 For This Useful Post:


  7. #14
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    WARPIG said:
    I have to ask,, did you purposely seat the bullet backwards? or was it untouched surplus? And then,,WHY would you shoot a known defective round?
    Hopefully your paying attention to bullet weight vs powder charge when your swapping bullets. I don't mean to chastise you but for a newbie your doing some "iffy" stuff. I would down shift and get a firmer grip before I proceeded.

    ///////////////////////////////

    This was a few years ago and I am well down the road now but at the time, I had
    an opportunity to go hunting and had no hunting ammo whatsoever. So it was either make
    do with milsurp or no hunt for that day. I didnt even have a press but used my bolt
    action to push the bullet back into the case.
    I did not alter the powder quantity of the milisurp bullets that I ground the tips off of or the
    one that I turned around backward to shoot. That was a YUGO sniper 198gr I believe
    and when turned around it became the worlds largest hollow hollow-point-boat tail-
    bullet ever. Shot from about 30 yards and a little high at the hog quartering away.
    It went in in the 5th or 6th rib and above the heart and blew up the insides pretty
    good before coming to stop against the far side shoulder. Hog only went 3 or 4 steps
    before lying down.

    I now do proper loading with scales and press etc but I wont forget how to make do
    in a jam if you only have misurp on hand. I read later that Eskimos sometimes
    do the same thing with 7.62x54R as the ammo is cheap and milsurp apparently
    fires well in cold weather. Saw where one guy for relatively close range hunting,
    snipped the tips off milsurp ammo with wire cutters and tried to shape the tip a bit
    to be uniform and he said they worked weil out to 75 yards.

  8. #15
    Legacy Member WarPig1976's Avatar
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    Using your rifle as a press,, that's a new one.

  9. #16
    Legacy Member vintage hunter's Avatar
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    Trimming the tips on FMJ bullets to make ersatz soft points is not a good idea at all. During manufacture FMJ bullets have the core inserted from the rear and have an ''open base'' as opposed to soft points where the core is inserted from the front and have a closed base. Trimming the tips creates a bullet that's open on both ends with nothing to hold the core in place and the high pressures can under the right circumstances push the core out leaving the jacket in the bore and if undetected the next shot would surely be detrimental. If milsurp is all you had available to hunt with you'd be better off leaving is be and making head or spine shots.
    Last edited by vintage hunter; 10-18-2013 at 02:44 PM.

  10. #17
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    I certainly appreciate the thought Vintage Hunter as it may be a possibility that
    SOME FMJ bullets could separate but not in the case of these Milsurps with tough
    tough tough jackets. In fact I think the jackets are magnetic. A copper steel
    alloy of some sort. But i was skeptical like yourself at first and ran about twenty
    down the barrel getting on paper and sighting the gun in etc before the hunt.

    I made sure every hole in the target looked good. Nontheless, I do believe the
    bond between the jacket and the inner core is greater than the friction
    of jacket to the barrel. Not just that but the jacket has to be swaged somewhat
    to allow the inner core to slip through like you say. Shooting guns are calculated
    risks and our jobs are to minimize them by paying close attention .... and
    not to abandon the hunt.
    I did however always know that my barrel was unobstructed and it is
    easy to check if doubt exists. Anyway, thats my story of how i got started reloading.

  11. #18
    Legacy Member WarPig1976's Avatar
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    Surplus 7.62+54R contains a mild steel core, some people think its armor piercing but it's not, that's what attracts a magnet. There is only a very little lead at the tip. By snipping the tip off in effect your shooting a steel slug which does not mushroom. Leaving the tip will not cause the bullet to mushroom either because,,,,,,, it's steel cored.

  12. #19
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    WarPig you would be right if ALL 7.62x54R milsurp was steel core AND I was using some
    of it. The milsurp ammo I have ( bought 880 rounds in spam can ) has soft lead
    core surrounded by jacket that looks copper color AND attracts a magnet. YUP copper steel
    alloy sounds pretty funky but it must be true unless there is some other material that is
    magnetic. My biggest worry is that the steel jacket is overly tough on bore and will wear
    the grooves off. But I've never heard of that being a problem so I guess not.

    I remember when I was first checking it out as I thought what you thought when magnet
    picked up bullet. SO, I peeled the jacket off the core with needle nose pliers and chisel etc
    and tested with magnet like that.

  13. #20
    Contributing Member CINDERS's Avatar
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    Hopefully you have stopped the making your own kick ar*e projies as I am sure one day your gunna find the copper jacket may come off the core whatever its made of same recoil etc slam another round in 'cause there is a whole mess of vermin your eradicating and fire!!! Hmmm projie meets cooper jacket stuck in bore with about 40,000 psi behind it, ooooh lookee here a bulged barrel at the least one hopes without any damage to the shooter.
    Sorry bloke one does not use a rifle as a press and as stated do questionable things reloading as you are really playing with dynamic forces which when go into an uncontrolled state can kill you, just ask the guy who tried to tap out a stuck live round with a cleaning rod at a rifle range, well you'll have to go where he is buried to ask him or the person who was injured from flying shrapnel eminating from the chamber backwards when the stuff let loose.
    And just buy a stuck case remover they are pretty cheap as I have only been told about using another round why risk having a serious jam in your rifle and wreck a hunting trip.

    The Germans in WWI carried a few rounds with turned projies in their cases to act as a kind of minature squish round to defeat the armour on the Britishicon tanks which was only about 1/2" thick as the base hit first supporting the core and allowing it to penertrate the armour and bounce around inside with the crew doing what bullets do best.

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