Green "Crud" on my Slings?

[usabaker]

As noted, cleaning verdigris out of brass sling components prevents mechanical expansion and damage. In a similar manner to rust expanding 9 times it's 'eaten' volume, which causes an enormous pressure on surrounding components and leads to mechanical failure.

I have had much success using Palette Knives aka Painting Knifes to get under the brass on slings to clean them out. I've used dental floss as well on snaps and such, but it tends to brake easy.

[22SqnRAE]

Good suggestion Bill, you know that will create an "ah-ha" for some quiet readers.

[usabaker]

Good suggestion Bill, you know that will create an "ah-ha" for some quiet readers.

I saw my wife using these things one night and thought, wow those Palette Knives would work great when I was working on wooden stocks and when inletting so I bought some. Then I was cleaning up some slings and needed to get under the brass. These just happened to be on my workbench at the time. It was an "ah-ha" moment for me too, the blades on these are stainless steel and about 0.012" (0.31mm) thick so they slip easily between things. The ones I have are called Master's Touch and are at the Hobby Lobby for $11.00 US. Credit to my crafty wifey.

[728shooter]

Thanks to all for the info on this! Now that I know I'm not the only one with this problem, i can spend my spare time cleaning everything again and know what I'm doing!

THANKS! --728shooter

[David TS]

David, you're absolutely spot on. Thank you. Buggered if I know what happened there. Verdigris was exactly what I was thinking and managed a 't' instead. The power of suggestion, hey? Well, I feel like a right goose now!

Probably a good reminder to check and double check my typing.

Was just teasing

[Sunray]

It's the copper coming out of the brass alloy. You can brush it off with a toothbrush. Highly recommended you do not use the one you do your teeth with. Isn't a good idea to borrow somebody's either. Even though that'd be really funny.
The vinegar doesn't have to be high quality. Any vinegar, vinegar being citric acid, will do nicely.
"...Spelling is..." Yeah! snicker.

[FlightRN]

Good Day All,
this is a timely discussion. I was cleaning a M1C and two M1D's this past weekend. The brass eyelets on the cheek pads (K Line, MRT 8-52, MRT 11-62) all had verdigris to some degree. An older toothbrush, very small amount of RemOil, and liberal application of Pecards leather conditioner has worked well for about 25 years.
For longer storage when dealing with bayonets, holsters, or any other accouterments that may have brass/leather contact, I use wax paper (for cooking) to "isolate" the leather from the brass/metal. Case in point, i slip a piece of wax paper over the blade of my Al Mar's and Randall's and rest it between the leather scabbard throat and the brass cross guard. This doesn't stop the oxidation/"growth" but can help to limit the amount of staining on the leather.
Best Regards,
Michael

[728shooter]

The vinegar doesn't have to be high quality. Any vinegar, vinegar being citric acid, will do nicely.

Uhhh......i think its called "acetic" acid. Citric acid comes from citrus; oranges, lemons, limes, and can be a bit corrosive in itself. All that being said, understand that the vinegar will clean the verdigris, but will the vinegar do any damage (over time) to vintage leather? Would hate to find my slings & holsters start to deteriorate from the use of vinegar...

[22SqnRAE]

728,

In short - not really. Lotsa "...but's..."

The vinegar does need to be good quality, hence reasonably strong to get the job done quickly and efficiently. Watered down cheap and nasty brands will prolong the exercise and annoy you and potentially have the item wet for too long. You're not going to soak the leather and keep it wet for more than a few minutes at tops, so no real harm can come of it. Consider that leather is in contact with skin and sweat in many uses, and it survives ok if we clean and look after it.

Once verdigris is removed and clean brass seen, then it's a simple and necessary task to rinse the metal and surrounding leather with clean tap water. It removes any residual acid and takes away any build up material from the leather. When the leather is mostly dried out, then it's time to apply some of your preferred leather preservative. Your choice as to what works best for you (wax based, lanoline based, neatsfoot oil based...) But certainly giving the leather a little preservative post wetting is a good move. I've found that lanoline or Renaissance Wax is the go-to for my leather reservation.

Like most things, anything in moderation (even moderation!)