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Contributing Member
Just sent to pm box for wrench.
If you can use it let me know.
Brian
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Thank You to Doco overboard For This Useful Post:
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05-19-2021 08:35 PM
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Contributing Member
right back at ya Brian! You're the best!
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Contributing Member
Criterion barrel just came in today. Looks perfect in every respect...even the breech end.
In Doco's build, his had a ridge around the chamber mouth https://www.mdshooters.com/showpost....06&postcount=1
Even though they denied it was a flaw when he called them back then, they must have listened and fixed the issue because mine is perfect, neat, flat and square.
Attachment 117701
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Advisory Panel
I'm thinking if you had to finish a chamber the ridge would go away anyway, could just be turned off on the lathe too.
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Contributing Member
could just be turned off on the lathe too.
keep rubbing it in...I need a lathe. I don't think that will happen though until my first retirement.
The supposed reason for that ridge in Doco's barrel was to give a bit more material in finishing to accommodate variances in wear, overlapping of bolts, and slight differences between receiver models, without the need for a lathe to finish the job. Thankfully, mine is clean and square.
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Thank You to ssgross For This Useful Post:
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Contributing Member
The day-job threw me a curveball and I'm going to be booked solid until mid July, and so I haven't made any real progress except for collecting parts...but I did get the barrel off! I used a 20% off coupon at Harbor Freight to buy a Krag action wrench...https://www.harborfreight.com/24-in-...nch-63644.html
I slapped some aluminum tape on the jaws, tightened on the flats as indicated above. I used a big pair of pliers to tighten the wrench, and hold it while I gave the 2ft handle a gentle jerk. I could see the aluminum tape pressing down, but the wrench didn't seem to be slipping, so I gave it a bit harder of a tug, sharply and smartly, felt a light pop and the receiver was loose. No damage, just tiny bit of aluminum to clean off the receiver flat.
I immediately dry fit the new barrel, and I have about 1/8 of a turn to get the index marks to match up. I'm not sure I trust the BFW to tighten it up that much without slipping, so I will certainly be borrowing Doco's wrench when it is time.
I'll take some good pictures next before I scrub and start thinking about refinishing. On a positive note, what I thought may have been rust in the receiver by the breach was dried grease...old orange grease from back in the day when it likely was made with bee's wax.
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Advisory Panel
Originally Posted by
ssgross
what I thought may have been rust in the receiver by the breach was dried grease
Not surprising. Just needs a scrub and oil. We'll be watching later for the end result. Glad to hear the removal went as planned. The wrench won't go bad, now you have it.
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Contributing Member
Many thanks Doco for the tools.
I had time on my way home from work today to duck into the shop of Dunlap Woodcrafts in Chantilly. Daniel was nice enough to show me around, and show me a box the full length Krag stocks he has ready to go. All that is left is the final milling around the finger grooves. These were all straight grained walnut. He also showed me some blanks that he could duplicate a stock from - several had very nice, mild figuring on the but up through the wrist area. He noticed I was a tall guy and even said he could leave up to an inch longer than his pattern on the butt if I wanted the extra length of pull. The only challenge will be the matching handgaurd. He can duplicate my original just fine, but does not do the clips. I'll have to study that one. Unless I can find a worthy original, I'll likely have Daniel make one and be sure to post details of his work. He also showed me some 1873 trapdoor full length stocks. Nice guy.
I don't have a bead blast setup, and don't plan to drop on one. I need to post some detailed pictures of the receiver so you can see, but it's in real good shape. I'm thinking of using one of those rust remover baths like this https://www.amazon.com/Workshop-Hero.../dp/B005JVNQPQ, or similar (WD-40 makes one, another one is called evapo-rust) to get a clean, even, bare metal without damaging the surface, especially inside the raceway. Then, go over the outside with 400 grit to knock of the very very light pitting around the door and side plate area before rebelling. Sounds like a good idea in my head - that stuff is good for many re-uses if stored airtight, is ok for skin contact, and can be poured down the drain when spent.
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Advisory Panel
Originally Posted by
ssgross
I don't have a bead blast setup,
If you have a compressor you could build a cabinet. Just need a good glass window and light inside. The bottom needs to be a funnel down to gather beads...the compressor is the critical component, needs size and lots of hose to keep moisture down. You can also bead blast outside if you don't have much using a bucket for the bead feed hose. Then the beads are gone after.
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Contributing Member
thought about it. but I don't have the room. If the inside and bolt raceway were rough I'd go for it, or send it out. But it's near perfect less the wear of the finish, and I think the outside just needs a good even scruffing. You're still fast Jim!
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